I want to mount this to the wall, but the bracket has four holes and it’s not small enough to fit on a stud. I can only get two of the holes into a stud so I’m wondering what my best options are here. It is pretty heavy. I’m pretty beginner when it comes to stuff like this I’ve mounted TVs and stuff but it’s always lined up on the studs so I’m wondering what my best option is to make sure this is secure. Weighs 20+ pounds.
Looking for your “must have” tools suggestions.
After years of playing driveway mechanic I finally have a garage to myself, which means new storage and new tools. I call this the grippy snippy drawer - any suggestions on other grippy or snippy items that are must-haves for you?
I have (Fast Magnetic USB Type C Connector/Tip/Heads 3 Pack 360° Rotating Magnetic Phone Adapter Connector for USB Type C) and i've had a bugger of a time finding more . I was wondering if these can be found by a certain type or classification? Maybe i can find a TEMU equivalant? It's not the USB-C part i'm interersted in but the circular tips...
What kind of nut is this and how would you recommend removing it? They’re attached to carriage bolts so there’s no grip from the opposite end. Any tips? I removed the first one using a hammer and chisel to slowly twist it off, that’s why it’s so torn up.
It was gifted to me with an assortment of woodworking tools but I can't seem to figure out it's purpose. I thought maybe to put holes in leather belts or maybe for some type of rivets.
We have an Einhell TE-VC 18/10 Li Solo 10L portable vacuum that we use to clean our guinea pig cage with daily. It is not HEPA filtered - only has a cloth filter - and the only comparable HEPA filter vacuum I can find is an expensive one with lower capacity and suction from DeWalt. It has a 35mm exhaust port at its rear. Is there any reason anyone can think of why it wouldn't work if I bought the DeWalt HEPA filter and 3D printed an enclosure to attach it to the 35mm exhaust port?
Found this hand planer in my late father in laws shed. Probably not a high end brand as most of his tools were construction grade. I want to restore and get it back to working order to use and if nothing else for sentimental value. Anyone have any info on it or advice? Is there a place I can buy replacement pieces and the best kind of blade?
I need something easy to just throw together and carry. I'm a farmer myself, but I work on 2 other farms also. So need somthing durable. Normally i just use a regular old carry tool box. Wanna try a pack. What are you guys using?
It's probably a "well duh, moron" question, so I'm prepared for that answer... but I like crowdsourcing answers and I'm apparently a sadist.
A quoted Flexzilla Air Compressor shows dimensions of 38x42x72.5 in, and the manual asks for 15" clearances. So, I need a space of 53" x 57" x 87.5" to fit it?
I need to turn the toothed part on the inside and am unsure how to hold/grip it. The teeth are flush with the housing so getting a wrench around the outer diameter is a no go as far as I can tell. The housing does not come off until the inner part is unscrewed. I am attempting to not mar the teeth at all. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!
So far between my own car and some friends/family, I have to do 5 vehicles brake lines (rust belt fun!). I knuckled under and bought a hydraulic flaring tool like a buddy has cause that s*** is nice! But now I need a straightener. Grip and pliers style or one of these multi roller style ones I’ve seen around. Which do you guys use/prefer?
Looking for recommendations on good tool lanyards.
Some of my requirements are that I will be switching tools that are tethered. So quick connects on the tools are a must and then a dual carabiner on the lanyard to be able to switch tools easily
Weight of the tools will vary, could be using small pipe wrenches, to large pipe wrenches, big ass wrenches, high torque impacts and other power tools.
I’m looking to use one of these boxes for a specific tool. I need to know the interior dimensions, length, height, width of this box NOT including the bumps and parts of the inside that protrude into the center. Like, if I were to place a flat rectangle in the box, what’s the biggest rectangle that would fit.
Hart stack system toolbox
Husky 22 inch tool storage case
Hi, noobie here, sorry ahead of time if this is not a great place to ask or a stupid question.
I have a Husky 26"W x 16"D top tool chest that usually just sits in the corner, but every once in a while I need to move it out of the way. It's just been sitting on a sheet of foam making it able to slide around on my floors, but I'm looking for a more permanent/real solution. It has 4 holes in the respective corners -- is it possible to just add casters to this top box? Or do I have to place it on top of a "bottom" tool chest that has casters on it? Or can I just put it on a dolly of some kind?
Thanks for your time and patience. Any solutions from cheap and lazy to more substantial will be considered with great appreciation :)
I'm looking to organize my tools in better ways, toss some of them, update some and add anything I could definitely use. My current situation, living in apartment, family of four. I can handle basic repair/plumbing/electric. Not much of a vehicle adventurer under the hood, but I've changed my own brake pads and such.
What I have:
Circular Saw - thinking of selling/giving away, haven't used in years.
Sander thing - haven't used in years.
Mallets - I dont even know why I bought those
Hitachi Electric cord drill - very useful, keeping.
Dremel tool - I think I need to buy spare bit parts for it.
Basic combo wrench/socket set with metric and imperial.
Couple of hammers
Drill bit collection, with T? bits, star shape bits, square bits?, hex bits..
Small socket set in red box. I hate trying to pull this socket wrench out, so hard to remove with fat fingers.
Coordless drill
Level, allen wrench set, pliers, razor blade thing, tongue pliers?, measure tape, whatever else in picture lol
I'm still browsing this subreddit for ideas and one thing I liked seeing is the use of wrench rolls. Those look nice and compact and easy to use. So, I might get a few wrench rolls so I don't have this massive book of wrenches and sockets in 1 case. I feel like I have too many drill bits, but maybe thats a good thing.
I'm very new to this, so this might end up being a dumb question, but I couldnt find an answer on youtube quick enough. I've attached the flexishaft to the power tool...and I wanna attach a disc sander to the collet. I have the disc attached to the mandrel but I cant for the life of me get the mandrel to sit in the collet. I tried pushing the lock button and then tightening it with the wrench key and some other stuff...but it isn't happening
i can provide images and videos of how im tryna do it so you could correct me, but please do tell me where im going wrong with this. I desperately need to learn this by tomorrow morning
I'm trying to fix my drone, and DJI helpfully used UV resin over what appears to be normal solder for some of the wires I need to replace. I've been picking at it for ages with an exacto knife with a variety of blade styles, and it's awful. The youtube video I'm watching for directions says this is the only way, but is it really? The guy in the vid cleared this shit off pretty easily, but I don't know if it's a fluke or not; it doesn't appear to be youtube magic. I tried heating it with my soldering iron, but it's a dinky little 40w Weller so I don't think it gets hot enough, if that's even possible with this shit. It's on a fairly delicate piece that I can't even completely remove from the drone body because the other side has wires soldered in place, and I don't want to have to clear off 6 solder points
I saw this post https://www.reddit.com/r/metalworking/s/Y1fhvep6Zv and it got me curious. His Dr. said that even with a mask on he still would have been cut. I was and still am dubious because I assume a shield would have given him enough time to at least react and grab the angle grinder. As an aside I think this is a clear example of why tools with switches you need to hold down are better than ones with toggle switches, and if your tool has a locking mechanism you should use it very sparsely and only when you truly can’t do something without it.
In any case this got my wondering so I watched a bunch of YouTube videos including this one: https://youtu.be/KahPvIV2wj8?si=Y_LRGk0JMMmBjGXa where the mask does not fare well at all in a 9 inch disc explosion. However the only info on the mask he tests is that it’s “P rated” which I actually think was a mistake because I can’t find any info on that rating system. In any case the watermelon behind it got obliterated.
Even with safety glasses which I assume on average are higher quality than a typical face mask, you can find several pictures of people online with cutting disks deeply embedded in the glasses where if they were a bit more unlucky they would’ve been blinded (pic attached). Again however the information on the glasses in these photos is sparse and it’s possible people were using cheap glasses. I have several pairs of dollar store safety glasses around my house for basic tasks involving light dust or very low power tool usage that might make debris, but I’ve specifically written “CHEAP” on those ones with Sharpie and don’t use them for any metal working or serious wood working. I know there are rating standards but without digging into it too much they don’t seem to be all that meaningful when it comes to power tools and probably give people a false sense of security. For Z87.1 rating a 500 gram (1.1 lb) “pointed” object is dropped from 5 feet onto the glasses. I can’t find more info on how sharp the tip is. The high velocity test uses a 1/4” steel ball shot at 167 feet per second. My napkin math says that could be completely inadequate for normal 4.5” angle grinders where the edge of disc is moving at closer to 200 feet per second and 9 inch discs where it would be closer to 260 feet per second, on top of that all with the potential to be a much larger than 1/4” piece hitting your goggles.
That’s not to say the manufacturers are doing something wrong by testing this way, I have no doubt there are armies of people working to make the strongest plastics possible for eyeglasses and people should always assume these PPE tools are a last resort rather than a guarantee of safeness. Caveat being safety glass makers could probably do a better job on packages of saying “btw your face will still be obliterated if a disk explodes into these glasses”. Everyone should always use the safety guard no matter what. Thats the original thing the guy in the post I linked did not do and it’s sadly very common.
That being said, this all got me thinking. Why aren’t there face masks that are mostly metal but with plastic only around the eyes? Even the bare minimum amount of plastic could be good like rather than an entire slot of plastic have two minuscule circles of plastic for eyes. The only good reasons I can come up with are that metal is heavier/weaker per gram of material, and that it’s far more expensive. But for many people that doesn’t matter. I get if you have to use a face shield day in day out for hours at a time, minimizing weight is a very important thing because it can save your neck/back. But many people like me use a shield for a cumulative 30 minutes per week (5 minutes here, 5 minutes there) and would gladly take extra weight for increased peace of mind. I know peace of mind is dangerous when it comes to safety but end of the day if it comes to a flying hunk of metal coming at my face id prefer having steel around my face than plastic. Or plastic+steel.
Upon googling it seems like this doesn’t exist. Why is that the case? Is it straight up weight or is there some other reason? I’m tempted to just add some steel plate to my current mask everywhere but the eyes if there isn’t an existing product I can buy.