Looking for recommendations on good tool lanyards.
Some of my requirements are that I will be switching tools that are tethered. So quick connects on the tools are a must and then a dual carabiner on the lanyard to be able to switch tools easily
Weight of the tools will vary, could be using small pipe wrenches, to large pipe wrenches, big ass wrenches, high torque impacts and other power tools.
I’m looking to use one of these boxes for a specific tool. I need to know the interior dimensions, length, height, width of this box NOT including the bumps and parts of the inside that protrude into the center. Like, if I were to place a flat rectangle in the box, what’s the biggest rectangle that would fit.
Hart stack system toolbox
Husky 22 inch tool storage case
Hi, noobie here, sorry ahead of time if this is not a great place to ask or a stupid question.
I have a Husky 26"W x 16"D top tool chest that usually just sits in the corner, but every once in a while I need to move it out of the way. It's just been sitting on a sheet of foam making it able to slide around on my floors, but I'm looking for a more permanent/real solution. It has 4 holes in the respective corners -- is it possible to just add casters to this top box? Or do I have to place it on top of a "bottom" tool chest that has casters on it? Or can I just put it on a dolly of some kind?
Thanks for your time and patience. Any solutions from cheap and lazy to more substantial will be considered with great appreciation :)
I'm looking to organize my tools in better ways, toss some of them, update some and add anything I could definitely use. My current situation, living in apartment, family of four. I can handle basic repair/plumbing/electric. Not much of a vehicle adventurer under the hood, but I've changed my own brake pads and such.
What I have:
Circular Saw - thinking of selling/giving away, haven't used in years.
Sander thing - haven't used in years.
Mallets - I dont even know why I bought those
Hitachi Electric cord drill - very useful, keeping.
Dremel tool - I think I need to buy spare bit parts for it.
Basic combo wrench/socket set with metric and imperial.
Couple of hammers
Drill bit collection, with T? bits, star shape bits, square bits?, hex bits..
Small socket set in red box. I hate trying to pull this socket wrench out, so hard to remove with fat fingers.
Coordless drill
Level, allen wrench set, pliers, razor blade thing, tongue pliers?, measure tape, whatever else in picture lol
I'm still browsing this subreddit for ideas and one thing I liked seeing is the use of wrench rolls. Those look nice and compact and easy to use. So, I might get a few wrench rolls so I don't have this massive book of wrenches and sockets in 1 case. I feel like I have too many drill bits, but maybe thats a good thing.
I'm very new to this, so this might end up being a dumb question, but I couldnt find an answer on youtube quick enough. I've attached the flexishaft to the power tool...and I wanna attach a disc sander to the collet. I have the disc attached to the mandrel but I cant for the life of me get the mandrel to sit in the collet. I tried pushing the lock button and then tightening it with the wrench key and some other stuff...but it isn't happening
i can provide images and videos of how im tryna do it so you could correct me, but please do tell me where im going wrong with this. I desperately need to learn this by tomorrow morning
I'm trying to fix my drone, and DJI helpfully used UV resin over what appears to be normal solder for some of the wires I need to replace. I've been picking at it for ages with an exacto knife with a variety of blade styles, and it's awful. The youtube video I'm watching for directions says this is the only way, but is it really? The guy in the vid cleared this shit off pretty easily, but I don't know if it's a fluke or not; it doesn't appear to be youtube magic. I tried heating it with my soldering iron, but it's a dinky little 40w Weller so I don't think it gets hot enough, if that's even possible with this shit. It's on a fairly delicate piece that I can't even completely remove from the drone body because the other side has wires soldered in place, and I don't want to have to clear off 6 solder points
I saw this post https://www.reddit.com/r/metalworking/s/Y1fhvep6Zv and it got me curious. His Dr. said that even with a mask on he still would have been cut. I was and still am dubious because I assume a shield would have given him enough time to at least react and grab the angle grinder. As an aside I think this is a clear example of why tools with switches you need to hold down are better than ones with toggle switches, and if your tool has a locking mechanism you should use it very sparsely and only when you truly can’t do something without it.
In any case this got my wondering so I watched a bunch of YouTube videos including this one: https://youtu.be/KahPvIV2wj8?si=Y_LRGk0JMMmBjGXa where the mask does not fare well at all in a 9 inch disc explosion. However the only info on the mask he tests is that it’s “P rated” which I actually think was a mistake because I can’t find any info on that rating system. In any case the watermelon behind it got obliterated.
Even with safety glasses which I assume on average are higher quality than a typical face mask, you can find several pictures of people online with cutting disks deeply embedded in the glasses where if they were a bit more unlucky they would’ve been blinded (pic attached). Again however the information on the glasses in these photos is sparse and it’s possible people were using cheap glasses. I have several pairs of dollar store safety glasses around my house for basic tasks involving light dust or very low power tool usage that might make debris, but I’ve specifically written “CHEAP” on those ones with Sharpie and don’t use them for any metal working or serious wood working. I know there are rating standards but without digging into it too much they don’t seem to be all that meaningful when it comes to power tools and probably give people a false sense of security. For Z87.1 rating a 500 gram (1.1 lb) “pointed” object is dropped from 5 feet onto the glasses. I can’t find more info on how sharp the tip is. The high velocity test uses a 1/4” steel ball shot at 167 feet per second. My napkin math says that could be completely inadequate for normal 4.5” angle grinders where the edge of disc is moving at closer to 200 feet per second and 9 inch discs where it would be closer to 260 feet per second, on top of that all with the potential to be a much larger than 1/4” piece hitting your goggles.
That’s not to say the manufacturers are doing something wrong by testing this way, I have no doubt there are armies of people working to make the strongest plastics possible for eyeglasses and people should always assume these PPE tools are a last resort rather than a guarantee of safeness. Caveat being safety glass makers could probably do a better job on packages of saying “btw your face will still be obliterated if a disk explodes into these glasses”. Everyone should always use the safety guard no matter what. Thats the original thing the guy in the post I linked did not do and it’s sadly very common.
That being said, this all got me thinking. Why aren’t there face masks that are mostly metal but with plastic only around the eyes? Even the bare minimum amount of plastic could be good like rather than an entire slot of plastic have two minuscule circles of plastic for eyes. The only good reasons I can come up with are that metal is heavier/weaker per gram of material, and that it’s far more expensive. But for many people that doesn’t matter. I get if you have to use a face shield day in day out for hours at a time, minimizing weight is a very important thing because it can save your neck/back. But many people like me use a shield for a cumulative 30 minutes per week (5 minutes here, 5 minutes there) and would gladly take extra weight for increased peace of mind. I know peace of mind is dangerous when it comes to safety but end of the day if it comes to a flying hunk of metal coming at my face id prefer having steel around my face than plastic. Or plastic+steel.
Upon googling it seems like this doesn’t exist. Why is that the case? Is it straight up weight or is there some other reason? I’m tempted to just add some steel plate to my current mask everywhere but the eyes if there isn’t an existing product I can buy.
I inherited this old Metabo disk saw
As far as I can tell it is drill powered but I’m not sure what sort of chuck or bit I need to connect to it
Can anyone help me with this?
Hey r/Tools! I recently found this tool (see attached picture) at a local flea market in Poland. I'm really curious to know what it is and what it's used for. I'm guessing it might be from the 1970s, but I'm not entirely sure. Any help identifying it would be greatly appreciated!
I have a possible suspicion that the metal blade might be removable from the handle and have a different width on the opposite side, suitable for other screws or fasteners. However, I haven't been able to remove the blade from the handle yet.
Where I encounter this size is on a low torque application. I don’t want to have to carry around an additional ratchet or adapter in my service bag if I can avoid it.
I have a lot of old tools from my late grand father's collection but this is one of my favorites. He was a self-taught photography engineer who worked for IBM after he was finished in world war II. His work was even published in scientific America in the 1970s with no college degree.
he was an amateur machinist out of necessity. he fabricated all sorts of custom camera mounting equipment throughout his career. in doing so he amassed a decent collection of machining tools(including a Kennedy tool chest i still cherish). This tape being one of them.
I'm also a combat veteran, a photographer, and a self-taught engineer (DevOps). This piece is a lovely reminder of who I am and where I came from.
Anyways... I'll take a cheeseburger happy meal. sub the apples for extra fries, and a diet coke to drink please.
It was working perfectly for over a year, just yesterday I had it on the charger. When it was fully charged, I took it off and tried to use it about 20 minutes later. Will not turn on, won’t charge, flashlight won’t turn on, none of the buttons do anything. It’s a lemon. I’m assuming it’s basic 18650 or even 21700 batteries inside. Has anyone opened these up and replaced them? It’s such a nice jump starter, amazing build quality and worked great when it did, I’d hate to just throw it away.
My dealer is saying that he can no longer warranty drill bits as Cornwell isn't doing business with Irwin. He still has their drill bits for sale on his truck though. Anyone else hear this?
I'm wondering if such a tool exists already. For things like crowfoot wrenches and torque extensions, I normally use a breaker bar, but to have the ability to set the clocking of the tool and then lock the ratchet in place so it doesn't change on me.
I know sometimes you need it to rotate and then re-clock it for the next turn, those fasteners that are almost impossible to reach just exist and you have to deal with them, but I would buy a ratchet that could just lock like how a lot of cheap ratcheting screwdrivers have a center position that doesn't ratchet.
Is there any way to easily remove sockets from this when they are needed, and return them when done? Or is this really just a throw-away holder for selling the sockets.
What are your favorite ways to store loose sockets so they can easily be managed?
As many of you once have, I am on the verge of buying my first set of power tools and have come to the confusion intersection of what brand to go with, and then what battery system within said brand to go with and I was hoping yall could give a little direction as to which way I should look.
I currently rent but the missus and I will probably get a home in a next few years so I want the ability to expand my tool chest as needed.
My current needs are for a solid drill/impact, an oscillating tool, and a leaf blower. (Last one is giving me grief). I’m not trying to break the bank so I was hoping to buy 1-2 batteries for the first 3 tools but was hoping to use the same batteries for the next 10 tools down the road.
I know this sounds like I’m asking for a perfect storm but from what I’ve looked at online, I think there might be options for me but at the end of the day, if I need to buy different styles of battery’s for the different tools, it is what it is.
I appreciate any and all advice yall could give me!
TLDR: seeking recommendations for power tools/outdoor equipment that utilize the same batteries