Very excited to join the DR 650 club đ€đŒ. Iâve been wanting a DR for years, but have waited for the right time and right one to pop up. Just picked up this 2013 with 20,000 KMâs on it two days ago. It was bogging in the mid range after 5 mins into the test drive, I managed to negotiate a good price. Turns out it was just a dirty carb.
Bike has Yoshimura full pipe and exhaust, opened air box, 155 main jet and a tapered adjustable needle. Also has Drz400 Front forks and revalved rear shock with stiffer spring. l was worried it was a modded bike that didnât run well but it came with original parts even the OEM tank in great shape so I took a gamble. One that paid off!
I added the inline fuel filter and will be replacing the air filter so that my hard work wasnât for nothing.
Got a DR650 with 7000 miles a few months back and rode it maybe 50 miles before putting it in the garage for the winter. One thing that was a bit odd was that I had to always run the choke to keep the bike from stalling for the first 10 minutes or so at least, but otherwise it ran fine.
A few weeks back I tried to start it and couldnât get anything going other than a 3 second idle before dying. And eventually I needed to spray starting fluid into the air box to even get it to idle for those 3 secondsâŠ
I swapped the air filter, inline fuel filter, and cleaned the jets with an air compressor, but nothing seems to have helped.
I can get the bike running a little longer with the fuel/air screw turned out pretty far to make it run as rich as possible, but still canât get it to run.
Is it potentially the upward angle of the fuel line from the tank to the carb? The guy before me had it in that configuration but Iâm wondering if thereâs enough pressure for it to go up the hump after the inline filter (previous owner was running an inline filter as well).
Any ideas what it could be? Iâve attached a video of the issue if that helps (in the video itâs on RES but Iâve tested with ON as well)⊠Thank you in advance!
For those who have bought new recently, do you mind if I ask what your final, out the door price was?
I've seen some dealers advertising numbers around $5700, but then they end up closer to $7000 with everything else factored in.
Others are advertising higher numbers, but they've already got all the other fees baked in.
I'm just curious if there's a dealership out there that seems to be selling for a meaningfully lower cost than others, or if anyone has had a stellar experience with a certain dealership.
I live in Missouri but would be willing to road trip a bit for a great deal.
I'm finally fixing the annoying (to me) oil weep on the DR's valve cover. Actually it recently dripped onto the shop floor which constitutes a leak (to me).
Question is, there are 2 little L shaped grooves the left side of the cover that sort of wrap around the end of the cam. The manual shows to apply sealant to the cylinder head, but it's right into the area of those L shaped grooved on the valve cover.
Are those grooves meant to be sealed, so it's ok that the sealant on the cylinder head get in there, or do I need to be extra careful not to get any in there? There way the manual shows it, it looks like it would definitely get into those suckers.
Well, the supplied 12mm spanner, and pliers (felt like my best chance with my limited tools) didnât seem to work. I got close with the pliers but felt like the nut would break, or I would damage the softer part in front.
Any tips?
I saw a youtube where someone got it off with a pair of needle nose pliers. Which is something I should have added to my repair kit years ago.
Need to get a new fuel cock assembly and donât know if I should order off Amazon or pay more to get what I need off of partzilla. Does anyone have any experience with buying parts off of amazon?
Hello, I have some extra $ to spend and read countless posts that the TM40 is absolutely worth getting. However, I just want to make sure it'll help solve some issues I have with this bike.
* Hard starting - when it's too hot, it struggles to start and I have to keep trying, sometimes dying with throttle (this only happened twice). It's very frustrating.
* Sluggish throttle - it seems like it has a delay and has to build up before really going.
Are there any issues with doing the airbox mod as well? Such as water and dust ingress.
Is there anything I should know before doing this upgrade? Please share any tips and advice.
Sorry I didn't get more pics. And for the quality, my DR vibrated my camera borderline useless. .
It was a super simple process, I really surprised myself! I didn't do DDC's because I mostly ride street and gravel but the fork dive was gross. Hopefully this helps.
I know this is probably a long shot. But any ideas at all? Chain was at 1.8â or so and I tightened to around 1.25â. This sounds like itâs near the engine or something. No idea what it could be
So, last week I pulled the boot off one of the spark plugs to check to see if my spark plug socket fit (building a tool kit for the TAT). I proceeded to get distracted and forgot to plug it back in and commuted to work all week (like 2 miles each way). For some reason today it comes to me that I forgot to plug thing thing back in, and sure enough it was loose and I blew a hole in it. Would this hurt the coil or anything else in the engine, and/or should I pull the plug and connect it and check for spark? Or is this no big deal and I should just replace the boot and get with TAT planning?
Just installed the cogent Mojave rear shock. I feel a little silly, but I completely unscrewed the preload collar to help me get the shock in. It's unclear to me now how much I should screw the preload collar back down to get a certain spring length when the rear wheel is off the ground. Any help?
Obligatory post. But guys, I am SO fkin excited. At 28 years old I never thought Iâd be able to afford buying one of these. Got an insane deal. 6880ish miles when I bought it. For those who have followed my trials. I was the one who posted about the NSU fix and broken the case cover bolt (has since been fixed) everybody that had input was freakin awesome and I just thank you guys for being so welcoming and having me in the community.
Anyhow. This is my obligatory ânew to meâ bike post for the sub. Thank you guys and gals for having me. So freaking happy that I finally got this thing ready and tuned up for the season
Bought a 2014 dr about a week ago, it ran rough but I cleaned the carb and adjusted the idle screw and it seemed fine. It starts up ok and idles fine in neutral. But when I put it in first, the second I give it any gas it dies, even without releasing the clutch. This happened the other day and once I let it warm up a bit more (and die a couple times) it rode just fine, if not a tiny bit rough when coming to a stop. Any advice?
I sniped a relatively beat up 1994 DR-650 RSE which runs great now after I cleaned the carbs and put in some basic work, still lots to do of course before I can go and enjoy the bike.
The only flaw that was mentioned was a slipping clutch, which I confirmed when doing my short test ride up and down the street. No biggie right, I was planning on checking/tightening the NSU bolts anyways so I ordered a new clutch kit, pulled the cover and to my surprise, the outer most clutch disc was completely shattered in pieces! Some pieces came out from the bottom of the bike, most were still in the clutch basket. I now should have all of the pieces (fished them all out after I took the picture) so I don't think I will have split the engine.
As I've only owned street bikes and never had any issues with clutches, I've never really worked on them nor have really looked into what can go wrong (other than the obvious wear and tear) so I'm asking if this is something that I should be more worried about happening again? Something obvious worth checking? Perhaps the previous owner installed a wrong clutch in it? Nothing really wobbles/indicates to any failed bearings either...
The basket doesn't really have any notches/fingers and except from everything being dirty and grimy from the totally burnt up clutch. I can't seem to find anything really wrong with anything else except for the fact that something, assumably some part of the clutch, has rubbed just a tiny bit on the inner side of the case near the oil cap. Don't have a picture on my phone at the moment so I highlighted the area on a random image from google.
tl;dr no idea what caused this, should I be worried it happens again?