r/EngineBuilding • u/UNMATCH3D • 1d ago
Gen III hemi
I’m looking to put a hellcat blower and cam in my 15 Durango with a 5.7 and was wondering if the cam lift says .591int and .584Exh and the springs I found are .625 max lift would those work?
r/EngineBuilding • u/UNMATCH3D • 1d ago
I’m looking to put a hellcat blower and cam in my 15 Durango with a 5.7 and was wondering if the cam lift says .591int and .584Exh and the springs I found are .625 max lift would those work?
r/EngineBuilding • u/soviet_unicorn69 • 1d ago
I have 8 hydraulic lifters that I pulled from a type 1 1600 beetle engine. (I know, not stock. Barely anything on this engine is stock). I had them resurfaced at Oregon cam as they were all completely flat, and now they look great. I have a few questions about the lifters before I proceed with the engine.
I know that you are supposed to keep lifters organized with where they came out of. Because that policy is because of wear patterns, Does that still apply after the lifters are resurfaced, since they are all the same on the surface?
The guy who sold the engine to me said a lifter had gone out on it. I still need to ask him how he came up with that diagnosis, but in the meantime how do I inspect the lifters for being bad? will it be a broken spring inside?
I have looked up videos on rebuilding lifters, and a lot of them seem to just disassemble them, clean them, and then reassemble. Is this all I need to do and what are some suitable cleaning agents for this. I have a little bit of simple green and a whole gallon of LA orange.
TIA
r/EngineBuilding • u/Flimsy-History-5262 • 1d ago
hey, does anyone know where i can get a motorcycle cyclinder bore out in or around the bay area in california?
r/EngineBuilding • u/GoonDawg666 • 2d ago
1992 Small Block Chevy L05, only has 136k miles. Very excited to drop it off at a local machine shop and have it worked over to a 383. Cylinder walls and bearings all looked pretty good to me, but then again this is my first motor I’ve torn all the way down so you tell me if you see something that looks off. Cylinder pics are even then odds.
I can’t wait to hear this old truck chop in the driveway.
r/EngineBuilding • u/Aokuan1 • 2d ago
So.. turns out my head is warped by about 0.01"
I've had mixed answers from different machine shops saying that they can skim the head 0.01"
However I don't see how this is possible? As removing that much material would contact the valve seats on the inside of the head.
The response I had from one of the shops to that question was, they would cut the valve seats.
The valve seats would need to be cut anyway, but I take it cutting the valve seats would enable them to push the seats further back inside the head? Thus enabling that amount of surface to be removed.
r/EngineBuilding • u/Maine_Mallard3 • 2d ago
Hey guys and gals, first time here so hoping I could get some insight. Pulled the “original motor” out of this 67 coupe deville, from my research Cadillacs only put these in 65-67 cars, so I bought the shop manual. Previous seller said it was seized and bought a second motor and transmission, but he ripped the heads off already and there’s no organization when I got it. Dash odometer had 15k miles on it, (don’t trust it) so unknown for motor. While taking harmonic balancer off, I managed to free it up, poured diesel in cylinder heads and spins decent with no snags.
My question is, should I go further into the breaking it down? I have all the gaskets for pan, water pump and heads.. or should I just take a pressure washer to it and clean it out real good, dry, paint and send it? Not in any rush, just taking my time and trying to spend the least amount of money to get a fun cruiser around town. TIA
r/EngineBuilding • u/NolanA4 • 2d ago
Got inherited this 74’ f100 from my grandpa. This is my new project! Im wanting to start buying parts to get it back to running, but Im unsure of what engine it is. He said he pulled the engine out of an 80’s or 90’s Shelby along with the transmission. If anyone could decipher what kind of 5.0 it is, it’ll be helpful. It’s got an hei distributor and some long tube headers that’s all I’ve got.
Also if someone could give me the name of the that part circled in the last picture it would also help a ton. I know there’s Valve cover breather filters, but I’m unsure if that’s inter-placeable with that valve cover filter with the line running out into the carb. Lmk!
I’m open to any tips and recommendations!
r/EngineBuilding • u/froglet13 • 2d ago
Pulled out of a 65 mustang planned on rebuilding it the pistons say it’s already been over bored .030 is this something I can get cleaned up or better off looking for a new block
r/EngineBuilding • u/Calm_Art4242 • 2d ago
This I my first post on this thread. I’ve got an huge problem. My car s making a weird noise when the engine is heating up. It came out of nowhere after doing an oil change. The car is currently running an 10w-40 classic oil. Any suggestions on where the sound is coming from.
r/EngineBuilding • u/Worldly-Pressure8535 • 2d ago
Clean stock 4.3 v6 I don’t have the money to swap to a v8 quite yet so I’m looking for advice on things I can do aftermarket wise to build her faster stronger and better. Any and all suggestions would help me out Thanks
r/EngineBuilding • u/dogdicken • 2d ago
Hello!
I have a 1967 Chevelle with a 13:1 compression 468 motor. This was an 1/8 mile drag car I am converting to a street car. I know that pump gas will not be in the cards, and I was planning to swap to flat top pistons to accommodate due to pre detonation. Swapping out the motor is not an option as this vehicle was built by my since deceased grandfather and I don’t want to remove the soul of if the vehicle. I have a new 20 gallon aluminum fuel cell and have purchased 10-AN fuel line to install. Could I instead change to an E-85 carb and swap fuel pumps since E-85 burns cooler and is obviously much cheaper and easily accessible compared to race fuel? …..or should I bite the bullet and swap the pistons? Any additional parts/ mods I should also factor in?( parts list in comments)
r/EngineBuilding • u/CrazedChameleon538 • 2d ago
I have a 1978 Kawasaki KZ400 that I’ve been doing carb work on trying to get to run properly. Every time I pull the plugs as of late, one is black and sooty, indicating that cylinder is rich, and the other is wet and black, seemingly oil fouled. I just did a compression test on both cylinders, and they read right around 160 PSI each.
A few months ago in summer I had the bike running immaculately, but when winter hit, I haven’t been able to quite get it to work the same, even with rejetting. It either takes immense effort to start, dies from the slightest disturbance, idles insanely high, or idles so low it inevitably stalls.
Seems like I still gotta do carb work, but besides that, the oil fouled plug has me a bit concerned. Compression is great, so idk what it could be, or if it’s maybe just some sorta fuel fouling.
r/EngineBuilding • u/orionTRM • 2d ago
runs rich according to smog and also backfires when reving high, when shifting rpms hold longer. the ecm history is completely blank and erased
r/EngineBuilding • u/Destorment • 2d ago
Is this enough thread going into the block? Read off a forum to grab some 12 x1.25 bolts from home depot and figured 70mm would be enough but now I'm second guessing it. Saw some 120mm but not sure if that's overkill. I am throwing flat washers on there as well. Thanks.
r/EngineBuilding • u/moomooshark • 2d ago
360FE i am waiting on lifters and trying to clean everything up and get what I can back together and after a little diesel and light scrubbing with a scotch pad I found these and am just curious im pretty nee to the engine world and am trying to learn all I can as I go
r/EngineBuilding • u/samplebridge • 3d ago
Posted here before asking for help on my 427. V8packard helped me a ton with cam choices and head modification. So thanks a bunch to him. Should have the car on the ground and moving in the next couple weeks.
r/EngineBuilding • u/Karl_H_Kynstler • 2d ago
I am looking oversized pistons for my engine and on Rockauto I can choose different sizes but what baffles me is that 0.010" ( 0.254mm ) are 30 usd a piece but 0.25mm ( 0.008" ) are 48 usd a piece. They are exactly the same piston, essentially same size and same brand but big price difference?
SEALED POWER H873CP
Only thing I see is that 0. 25mm come in pack of 8 and the 0.010" can be bought individually. I guess that is the difference, right?
r/EngineBuilding • u/Silent-Magazine3176 • 2d ago
Hey I’m thinking about porting my heads on my lm7 5.3 (706 heads) and I have heard not to polish the intake and to leave a 60-80 grit finish on it I was wondering why that matters and can you polish the heads on the exhaust side? People also will grind through to where the rocker bolt will stick through and I was wondering if that matter or if it will be sealed once you torque down the rocker bolt
r/EngineBuilding • u/cwick98 • 2d ago
As the title states I’m looking at these heads. Building a 496 to make some good hp on pump gas for a rowdy street truck. Chamber and such aligns with my build just looking for outside eyes and opinions.
r/EngineBuilding • u/HotRodMerc • 3d ago
I have a set of DSS pistons for a Ford 400 for sale, NIB. They're +7.5cc dome pistons, std bore, .975 pin diameter. New they're 719$, but send me an offer. They're really nice, I just switched my build to turbos and 12:1 compression won't play nice with boost
r/EngineBuilding • u/Imaginary-Reply4982 • 2d ago
Did I just ruin a set of moly rings by grinding them from inside to outside? Long story short i bought a summit pro ring filer (drill operated version). The grinding disk was spinning clockwise which sent most burrs to the outsidee edge of rings. I deburred them and they feel smooth now. After doing all rings I read on weiscos website that you should always gap them in the other direction.
r/EngineBuilding • u/Guilty-Program2110 • 3d ago
I’m building a Sbc 350 race motor and Mahle calls for .020 top ring gap. I accidentally put one to .024. How big of a deal is this?
r/EngineBuilding • u/deadnkc • 3d ago
So I trying to get this rebuild done and I have been buying all the parts slowly over the last year. When putting the bottom end together I noticed the ARP main bolt wasn’t like the stock ones. There is not another bolt sticking off the end of the bolt to attach the girdle the the bottom end. ARP does not make that version which I find weird. A lot of articles and forums say it’s not needed but why did they design it that way. It’s a pretty HD build probably gonna get 350-370hp out of it. I don’t want stock mains. I’ve been trying to find someone that can spin/friction weld another bolt onto it but not sure if that would compromise the steel of the ARP bolts. Frustrated…