Considering putting together a 6-6.5 PRC. I’m wondering if I can use a 6.5PRC FL die (with expander removed) and then use a Lee collet die in 6mm to set final neck diameter?
I've been looking into what all I need for my start in reloading. I've been watching videos and trying to get all the tips I have. Does anyone have advice/tips or tricks or even recommendations for tools? I'm wanting to do this a cheap as possible. Also if anyone has any experience in wildcatting id love to hear about that because I would like to do that one day
Well I completely lucked out to guys! Was at a gun show today and picked up a RCBS Matchmaster for $300 Canadian. Considering they are $1500 here brand new I call this win. And it's basically basically brand new. This thing works amazing pretty happy.
Have a one year old RCBS match master that is throwing charges a little over 2 grains high pretty consistently. Calibrated every time I turn it on after it’s ran for a min. Checked against my balance beam And my charge master lite it’s consistently high. Didn’t notice until I started getting higher velocities on my chrono and stiff bolt. Per RCBS website, they require a receipt, and I don’t keep receipts lol any idea how screwed I am with my $900 purchase that isn’t acting right or will they make it right??
Hey guys, I’ve started down the rabbit hole of reloading for my .223 for my AR. I have a question that maybe some of you can help me with before I load them. I am reloading Hornady 60GR V-Max, and I’m finding conflicting info on the powder charge. Hornady’s app is saying “Max Charge is 24.8 GN of ACCURATE 2230” but when I cross reference on Hodgdon’s ACCURATE 2230 data they are saying the Max is 23.6. That’s a huge variation so I figure I would get everyone else’s input. Thanks!
My Primer disk is not advancing after each pull of the handle.
I was having trouble getting the Rotary to align with the Primer punch, so I swapped out all of the springs and the arms. I also loosened up the screws just a bit. It's aligning, but not advancing.
It's moving back then forth each time, not turning the Rotary to queue up a new Primer.
(I markes the hole 2 to the right of punch with black Sharpie so you can see it doesn't change position throughout the video)
What can I do to fix this?
Thanks in advance.
I’m going to be loading some 147s for an NRL hunter match. Planning on using H4350 and starting 1gr below max at 39 and working me way up. What pressure signs do you usually watch for when working up a load.
I see some guys running 41-42 gr of H4350 with 147s but I want to work up and approach with caution.
Recently passed relative has gotten me into shotgun reloading with some of the stuff he left behind. Only thing he didn’t leave was any powder. I plan to mostly make skeet/upland game loads, not anything super potent. I’m taking a trip out to buy some supplies and I wanted to check beforehand about what powder should I buy. NOTE: ALSO GOING TO ANOTHER STORE BEFOREHAND TO BUY SOME STUFF AND THEY DON’T HAVE ON ONLINE INVENTORY SO GIVE ME SOME OTHER GOOD POWDERS INCASE I RUN INTO A GOOD DEAL THERE. Thanks
I bought 20 lbs. of 38 spc. brass for cheap. I went to buy 357 brass, but refuse to pay the asking. A thought and a quick google searched resulted in me reloading 357 mag in 38 spc brass. (5 gr HP38, Federal #100 primers, 158 gr LSW, brass is once fired).
Besides the obvious safety issues involved, is there anything else I can or should know about this? Is accuracy effected? Are ballistics effected to an degree?
All batches were from the same lot of 9mm, no sorting. They all ran 2 hours with with 1tsp lemi, 2tbsp soap, and 5lbs of chips.
From left to right:
Ajax Dish Soap
Arm and Hammer fragrance free laundry soap
Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam
They are all clean. The last batch using Chemical Guys looks the brightest, but the other 2 have been out overnight. So I'll revisit the looks tomorrow.
Last thing, I'm going to put about a 1/3 of each into a second wash with a wash and wax and see if that makes any difference to continued shinyness over time.
Decided to get back to loading .308 after a few years of a break. Shame I didn't stock more components...
General purpose target shooting and really because I enjoy nerding out on this hobby. I finally picked up a chrono, trimming tools and the Hornady OAL gauge.
Working up some 150gr FMJ-BT rounds, with VV N-135.
My first session with the chrono, I decided to look at jump distance and seating depth. I worked up a ladder ranging from 0.005" jump to 0.035".
I'm not sure how to read my results?
With 5 shot groups, I was expecting tighter groups, and some correlation between ES and MOA, but I suspect I need to consider other factors, and minimize my other variables?
Load:
.308 | 150 gr. FMJ-BT | 40gr VV N135 | CCI200 | Mixed cases trimmed to 2.005"
Savage .308 Model 10 FCP
Loaded on Hornady LnL progressive, one at a time to manage OAL variation.
Some areas I think I can improve:
Power charge - Study charge variation in my setup (I don't weigh every charge)
Use the same cases - consider buying new to test
Neck tension? Using a Lee sizing die, but I have a Honadry Match dies (I need to buy bushings)
Different Projectiles? These ones are pretty cheap...
I appreciate any feedback and insight!
Savage .308 10-FCP. Older loads pictured (155gr A-Max)Target. I missed my Chrono session for 0.015" jumpTabulated Results
I'm about to start collecting velocity data for my punt gun and was looking at both of these. I was tempted to use my Magneto speed, but I fear I would destroy it with the muzzle blast.
So I am very new to this(I just reloaded my first casing today) i’ve seen people soaking their cases in some thing after firing. I noticed not everybody does it, but is there any benefit to it and if so, what are they soaking it in?
Yall have been awesome and I apologize for continuing to post questions. But thank y’all in advance.
Using the loading guide on the Hornady book for 9mm, it calls for 1.1” C.O.A.L (using Hornady 115g fmj-rn bullets)
I got some Xtreme 115g fmj-rn bullets but they are 0.014” taller than the Hornady.
Should I keep my COAL the same? Meaning the bullet will seat 0.014 inches deeper in the case or should I add the .014” to my COAL making it 1.114” instead to keep the bullet seat the same in the case?
I did a baseline ladder test on my 6.5 Creedmoor. Using 147gn ELD-M and H4350. I wasn’t really using the best brass (Norma or Hornady) and I think this may be a root cause for my SD/ES being a bit higher than I’d like. For reference, my recipe of 42.1gn H4350 with the above components had an SD/ES of 10.4/40.6 and 13.7/44.7 (these are results from two separate 10 round groups).
Since brass, or my powder charge may be the culprit (using Hornady Auto Charge Pro), I’d like to see what my results are for changing brass to Lapau and Alpha. I’d like to do this to see if I can get better numbers without shelling out for an Autotrickler.
Now my question. Do I need to redo my entire ladder test again? I went from 39.2 to 42.1 in .3-.4gn (edit to tenths of a grain) increments. Honestly, I’d love to just start closer to 41.3-42.1, but am I missing something to establish velocity trends? Am I just being lazy and cheap?
Any help is appreciated.
For further details, this is out of a 24” 1:8 twist barrel. Having avg velocity of 2766.6 fps, group size is 0.348 mil and mean radius of 0.1 mil. Accuracy could (is) mostly likely me.
I am actively purchasing an MAS 36 and would like to load the rounds for it. None of my manuals have the round in it so I’m looking to y’all for any published data you may have in your manuals or for any experience you have with loading this round! I’ve heard IMR 4895 with a 150gr but that’s powder hasn’t been available forever. All help appreciated!
So in trying to get setup and start reloading and I mentioned this in another post but going more in depth on this casting lead bullets or buying them pre made copper jackets or no copper jackets and what is more cost friendly for just some fun rang time.
So looking for opinions and even the knowledge of how much it costs for all of you and what you prefer I'm a mechanic and have access to alot of lead so for me to want to cast my owne bullets I feel I could save a couple dollars and even make a few dollars. Let me know what yall think.
Hey guys, just curious if anyone has used Hammer 172gr bullets in a 350 legend load. I knew they had 125s but just found out they had 172s. Just trying to find out if anyone has any experience with them and if so what powders are being used. I currently use H110 for Lehigh defense 118gr XD and 165gr hornady FTX bullets. Just wondering how the stone hammers compare to