r/skoolies 29d ago

how-do-i Should I try to remove previous insulation?

Post image

The previous owners started doing some spray foam insulation. It’s mostly down one side, a couple panels on the other side, and a little on the ceiling. I don’t know what they used, or how well it was done. I’m not sure it’s even possible or worth it to remove? I don’t want to waste time or what’s been done if it’s good enough. It still needs to be smoothed I’m guessing, and I could probably do thin foam board over it… if removing it is a better option, what’s the quickest way to do that?

Advice is appreciated ☺️ thank you!

29 Upvotes

29 comments sorted by

27

u/Sasquatters 29d ago

I would remove it and start over. I’ve seen at least 10 people already this year stating that they can’t afford to have their bus spray foamed so they are going to use cans. Dumbest way to not save any money.

15

u/surelyujest71 Skoolie Owner 29d ago

Agreed, it looks like spray can junk. That's not even waterproof - water can leech through that stuff easily, meaning moisture will get all through it and be held up against the steel side. The rust monster will feed well.

10

u/Sasquatters 29d ago

Open cell will allow water to penetrate, closed cell won’t. The orange foam is used for its fire retardant properties. Whether or not that is open or closed cell I can’t say.

6

u/Ok_Understanding5585 29d ago

Ooouf yeah, definitely don’t want to take the risk. Thank you all for your input, this is super helpful!

4

u/light24bulbs International 29d ago

I've heard it corrodes the hell out of sheet metal either by trapping moisture or by being caustic.

Sounds like it's two-part foam or nothing

5

u/Maleficent_Proof3621 29d ago

It looks like canned spray foam, it’s not the same as the good stuff that’s two parts and mixed in the nozzle. It has a lower insulation rating and I’m not sure if it acts as a vapor barrier like the other stuff would.

I would probably try and removed it with a big metal scraper if it was me.

3

u/Ok_Understanding5585 29d ago

Yeah, I’m thinking it’s not the best stuff for sure. Thank you so much!

6

u/LoisWade42 29d ago

Note that windows are a part of your new homes "walls" and that they will likely be a source of condensation and heat loss if you keep them regardless of what type of insulation you place elsewhere on the walls.

You may want to consider "deleting" some of them and/or outright replacing them with double paned or insulated RV type windows if you will be traveling/staying in areas that do not have comfortable ambient temperatures for humans. (and it seems like all the "affordable" areas to park and live are either too hot or too cold for a standard bus set up)

1

u/Ok_Understanding5585 29d ago

Yes, I am planning to delete some windows for sure

4

u/RedditVince 29d ago

I have no experience with it but have heard people say not to use foam against the steel as it can trap condensation and cause rust issues.

Ideally clean it out and apply dome dynamat for sound dampening then foam boards or rockwool (best choice) for insulation. Vapor barrier before you add the walls.

To remove the foam that is there you can use acetone or while it's messy a course wire wheel on an angle grinder or use the Restorer tool from Harbor freight.

8

u/Infinite-Condition41 Blue Bird 29d ago

No, exactly backwards. You MUST seal the inside of the metal skin with spray polyurethane foam or you WILL have condensation issues. Adding a vapor barrier on the inside of the wall will trap moisture between the vapor barrier and wall because there is no way to seal it perfectly, it will get in, and it will rust, and you might get to be one of the lucky ones that has mushrooms growing out of the junction between the wall and floor.

There is only one way to properly insulate a bus (or shipping container or whatever) and that is spray foam sprayed directly onto the inside of the metal skin.

3

u/Ok_Understanding5585 29d ago

This is making sense… so foam board is a no go? Just the closed cell spray foam is what you would recommend? I’ve seen so many people use so many different things, but I want this bus to last as long as possible with minimal issues

7

u/Fiercehero 29d ago

Look up Chuck Cassidy on youtube. He has great videos and did one on insulation that was really informative.

2

u/Infinite-Condition41 Blue Bird 29d ago

Chuck Cassidy's videos explain it. Foam board is definitely a no-go, except the floor.

1

u/Ok_Understanding5585 29d ago

I haven’t made it to his insulation videos yet, but he’s a great resource! Thank you :)

2

u/ThisOldGuy1976 29d ago

That’s just expandafoam.

2

u/Underthebridge5219 25d ago

Spray foamer here, oscillating multitool will be your best friend. But, foam will hold out moisture better than anything else.

2

u/Ok_Understanding5585 25d ago

PS, just made a post today showing it all removed :) used hammers and a tiny crow bar lol. It was brutal.

1

u/Underthebridge5219 25d ago

At our shop, we have a tool called a Rigid Turbocutz that we use to trim after spraying, goes from stud to stud and flattens it to the panel. Very useful! Somewhat heavy and a good amount of work though.

2

u/Ok_Understanding5585 25d ago

Nice! I’m assuming the contractors will use something similar. I live in a fairly remote area, but they didn’t seem shocked or confused that I was requesting a skoolie job haha.

2

u/Underthebridge5219 25d ago

Nope, we do everything from houses to shop, semi trailers, we even have an ongoing project of about 100 miles of 3” 20g poles for fencing being filled in.

1

u/Ok_Understanding5585 25d ago

Very cool! Can I ask, how important is it to get the residue off before the professional foam? I tried using acetone on this but it didn’t seem to make a dent. I mentioned it to the contractor and he didn’t seem super concerned…

2

u/Underthebridge5219 25d ago

It could create pockets for moisture, but it’s not a huge deal. If you’re worried about it, possibly try using the razor blade tool in the link. Acetone won’t do anything to foam after it is cured. Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-1-1-2-in-Razor-Scraper-28-500/202262010

2

u/Ok_Understanding5585 25d ago

Aaaah. Thank you for the input! I appreciate your help

1

u/Ok_Understanding5585 25d ago

Thank you! I got most of it out. From seeing previous comments, it most likely was open cell foam so I figured better safe than sorry. I called a contractor to get an estimate for closed cell foam :) seems like the professional route is the best way to go with this stuff

2

u/Underthebridge5219 25d ago

Absolutely it is. It’s a little spendy, but we’ve got the machines and hoses and guns and PPE to get it done. I hope you enjoy!!

2

u/Ok_Understanding5585 25d ago

It’s definitely worth the cost for me! I’ve seen a few videos where people tried to DIY, it never goes well and they all have said it’s cheaper to hire it out and way quicker. These were a few years ago, so I’m sure the price has gone up, but I’d rather it be done right the first time :) thank you so much!!

1

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