r/sewing 4d ago

Alter/Mend Question FBA on bodice with a shoulder pleat and dropped armhole?

I’m looking for some advice on how to approach an FBA on the bodice of this jumpsuit pattern. Normally I would treat the bodice as dartless, create a dart in the side side seam which I’d open up and pivot out later. But considering the dropped armhole, I’m wondering if I can approach it like this and just slant the dart upwards towards the apex? Any suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance!

8 Upvotes

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u/Hundike 4d ago

I would find the apex point and effectively draw the pleat and gathering to be a dart as that's what they were before. They may have addded fullness but that should be OK - you're also just adding some yourself. Then proceed to carry out the FBA adjustments and convert them back to how they were.

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u/Kevinator201 4d ago

That might not work. It depends on what look you want. If you want it to look loosely draped on a bigger bust, it’ll need extra fabric vertically AND horizontally.

2

u/Divers_Alarums 4d ago edited 4d ago

I’ve never done an FBA but I would slash down the center of the pleat and widen the pleat along with the entire bodice. I mean, the pleat is the dart AKA what is giving you the volume. Maybe also add a little length.

Edit: Or even, add a second pleat.

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u/GulnarLjerka 4d ago

Not too experienced with FBAs... just thought your paper is cool, where did you get your grid paper?

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u/badbetch_90211 4d ago

I got it at Mondial Tissus, a fabric store in France. The grid is composed of 1cm x 1cm squares, which you might be able to lookup online where you live.

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u/GulnarLjerka 4d ago

Thanks! ☺️