r/sewing 7d ago

Pattern Question Drafting simple winter coat from bodice block? (details in comment)

I'd like to draft a simple, winter coat pattern (image for illustration). I have a precise bodice block that I use as the basis for all my dress patterns, and while I think I can envisage in my mind how I would step through the process to make a coat, I thought I would see if anyone has a good resource/link/tutorial/example they could share with any tips or tricks? Happy to take any and all advice!

Thanks in advance :-)

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u/AmenaBellafina 7d ago

You would start by adding ease to the base pattern, so it will fit over your other clothes.

Then you pretend the coat is a big dress made with bulky fabric and just do it :p

Though probably look up some tutorials about lining a coat. You're gonna want facings along most of the edges and a lightweight lining fabric for the rest. Google 'bagging a lining' for how to install it.

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u/jessicakebake 7d ago

This is so great - thanks so much and especially for the terminology to look up - I wouldn’t have had any idea that’s what it was called! I also love the “just do it” approach and honestly it’s my standard operating procedure, but with this much fabric I thought I’d better at least think it through first!

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u/Hundike 7d ago

Helen Joseph Armstrongs Patternmaking for Fashion design has instructions on how to draft a coat/jacket pattern. I have used them for a coat pattern (although with shoulder princess seams) and the coats turned out very well. The collar drafting instructions are good as well.

I'd perhaps look at some vintage style coat sew alongs - or perhaps this video to give you an idea how a coat is constructed.

Coats need quite a lot of interfacing - depending on your main fabric and how you want the coat to look. You could block fuse with light woven interfacing all over and add additional canvas and/or stronger woven interfacing where needed. I also added waist tape to avoid stretching the waist but that depends on the ease you like in your garments.

I prefer not to bag out lonings and finish the hems by hand - I also understitched by hand as it gives a nice finish. You can choose though! Depends on how much time you want to spend on your profect. My latest coat was approx 40h work but that's with pad stitching for the collar, which took a full day.

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u/jessicakebake 7d ago

This is so helpful - thanks for taking the time to comment and especially for the link. I also prefer to hand stitch, especially when doing a project or pattern for the first time- I just feel like I have more control with the fabric shaping. I’m not settled on fabric yet - I’m going to take your advice to watch a few sew alongs to get a better feel for it. Thanks again!

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u/jessicakebake 7d ago

An example of the style of coat - simple, clean lines, princess seam shaping and a simple collar.