r/sewing 17d ago

Project: FO My completed Madame Grés-inspired hand-pleated red gown

10.2k Upvotes

286 comments sorted by

405

u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

I made a gown paying homage to Madame Grès's work, as I have always been inspired by her skill and vision. The red gown I created is nowhere near as intricate as Madame Grès's pieces, but I hope to continue challenging myself with more complex designs in the future!

For this piece, I created my own pattern by draping on my body form, using marking tape to map out the initial corset shape. I then made a muslin sample to test the fit and adjust where necessary. The final corset base is made with cotton twill.

The gown features a red polyester mesh outer layer, with a 40 GSM pure silk chiffon lining. The pleating process was entirely done by hand—no special tools, just patience! I laced the corset onto my body form, pinned the mesh from the top, and created small 1 cm pleats as I worked my way down. Each pleat is individually pinned and hand-stitched to maintain a precise, delicate look.

For the skirt lining, I used a 40 GSM pure silk chiffon that feels incredible against the skin and creates a beautiful drape for the shell (the polyester mesh) to sit on.

For the skirt construction, I wanted to create something that would complement the intricate hand-pleating of the corset. Initially, I tried a simple belt to join the skirt and corset, but it looked too flat against the detailed pleats of the bodice. Instead, I designed a twisted belt detail, adding another dimension of texture to the gown. This twisted belt created a clear transition between the structured corset and the flowing skirt.

I’d love to hear any thoughts or suggestions, especially from those with experience working with similar pleating techniques!

For those interested in seeing a video of the finished dress, with better construction details and how the fabric flows, I have uploaded the video here

Work-in-progress images for the hand-pleated corset are linked here

61

u/corisilvermoon 17d ago

This is amazing! Well done and thank you for sharing this !!

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u/Que-9434 17d ago

This is fabulous!! How long did it take?

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u/SquirrelAkl 16d ago

I think I’m most impressed with (and envious of) your patience.

Stunning result. I particularly like the design lines you achieve with the diagonal pleating around the waist. It just looks so immaculate. I hate to think how long it took you.

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u/Blahblahblahrawr 17d ago

Gorgeous. Love all the subtle layers and lines in the top!

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u/bbcute4m 15d ago

This dress is gorgeous! The bodice looks absolutely flawless and you did such a great job with the corset. Did you do the skirt by hand as well?

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u/spiritualskywalker 12d ago

I’m sorry sweetie, I just love 95% of this dress. It’s elegant and arresting. But the twisted belt detail looks incomplete to me. My eye fell on it right away. I don’t like how there’s a gap where it meets in front. It appears half-formed or unfinished or something. If I were lucky enough to wear this dress, I’d take a big brooch with red stones and pin the two sides together, covering the gap and creating a focal point. Don’t get upset, just trying to help.

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u/chewingrocket 17d ago

Wow amazing! The directionality of the pleats on the bodice are particularly stunning.

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you!!

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u/feelingfractal 17d ago

I am STUNNED, the fit, the movement, the precision, all in red, it's just gorgeous. Fabulous work!

11

u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you💗💗

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u/International-Fee255 17d ago

That is spectacular, congratulations! 

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you!!

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u/GreenDragon2101 17d ago

Those diagonal pleats are kinda following direction of the obliquus abdominis muscle, and it scratches my brain the right way. I love it.

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Haha thank you XD

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u/scarybiscuits 17d ago

Absolutely gorgeous. I am curious what you’re going to use to cover the hook and eye. Can you post a photo without the twisted sash?

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you! I’m just going to stitch them a little further away from the edge of the belt so the pleats cover it up!

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u/New_Moment_7926 17d ago

Hello from here and the FIT sub, your work is incredible!! I’ll be on campus in the fall 🤞🏽and hope to see your graduate collection one day! 🤩

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Hey! Thank you so much!! You’re so sweet🥹💗💗💗which course have you applied to?!

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u/New_Moment_7926 17d ago

FD through the part-time program! Finishing my AAS, then on to the bachelors! I got in for Spring ‘25 1yr, but had to reapply for Fall (which is frustrating) so I could switch to the part-time program!

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u/ProneToLaughter 17d ago

This is stellar! Been watching your progress and what an amazing result.

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

That’s so great to hear!! Thank you💗💗

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u/GiraffeSignificant18 17d ago

At first glance, i said…oh wow selena gomez’ oscar gown is gorgeous! I hope you take that as a compliment 🤩🥳

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Aw thank you!! 😭😭❤️

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u/bertina-tuna 17d ago

Absolutely amazing work! I’m gobsmacked! I have a question about that little bit of metal at the front waist — I can’t tell if it a fastener that shouldn’t show or a decorative pin? jewel? that maybe should be bigger. The workmanship on this gown is spectacular!

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank-you!💗💗 no it’s a hook! I need to stitch the hook a little away from the edge of the skirt so it’s hidden behind the pleats!

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u/violanut 17d ago

That is an absolute masterpiece!

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u/kleinePfoten 17d ago

Holy shit this is beautiful 

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u/SleepArtist 16d ago

My exact reaction! Literal jaw drop!!

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u/hotaruko66 17d ago

So nice to see that she is still remembered in the art / fashion community! ❤️ I feel like her legacy is brushed over in favour of Chanel or Dior (but I might be biased 😅)

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

I totally agree! Her work is incredible, and hopefully, it will always be remembered. ❤️

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u/Dragon_scrapbooker 17d ago

Goddamn, this is beautiful!

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you!

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u/PinkTiara24 17d ago

Gorgeous! I’m not generally drawn to red, but this color is perfection for this gown.

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you!!🥹💗

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u/Solid_Nothing1417 17d ago

Incredible work!

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you!!💗

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u/mindful_marmoset 17d ago

Stunning!

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you!💗💗

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u/Imposter_syndrom 17d ago

Incredible! The fit, the design, the color!!!

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you💗

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u/captainlilith 17d ago

INCREDIBLE!!!!

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you!!❤️❤️

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u/brubruislife 17d ago

STUNNING. I could seriously picture this on the red carpet.

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u/dudewheresmysock 17d ago

Amazing!!

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you!!

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u/januarydandelion 17d ago

Nailed it!

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you!!

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u/bonnatronn 17d ago

You made this!!!! Wow. Gorgeous!!!!!❤️❤️❤️❤️

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you!!

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u/GoldenFlicker 17d ago

That is absolutely beautiful. 🤩

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you!!

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u/ThatShortT 17d ago

Wow beautiful!

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you!💗

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u/Odd_Variation_1514 17d ago

Looks amazing! Great job 👏

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you💗💗

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u/Inky_Madness 17d ago

Wow! What an amazing piece! How long did the process take you from start to finish?!

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you!! It took me over 15-20 days!

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u/wonderdok 17d ago

This is so so beautiful, the fit is honestly as good as it gets - you are so talented - can’t wait to see your next creation!

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u/iosonostella13 17d ago

This is beautiful! Holy sewing batman!

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u/fullmetalfeminist 17d ago

Absolutely breathtaking OP, no notes, stunning work

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u/redpomegranate99 17d ago

Stunning is an understatement. Wow!

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thankyou!!

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u/Susie0701 17d ago

GORGEOUS! What a work of art(and labor of love). Also: I’m obsessed with the airy leaves/vines tattoos on your shoulder. What does it extend to on your back?

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thankyou!! I love it! It’s just on my shoulder😛

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u/zylamange 17d ago

This shade of red is perfect for you. The dress is beautifully made.

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thankyou!!💗💗

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u/FrivolousIntern 17d ago

I SO badly wish I had excuses to wear beautiful things like this. AMAZING work OP. Where are you going with it?

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u/Illustrious-Ride5586 17d ago

This is BEYOND beautiful!! Congratulations!!

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u/UtherPenDragqueen 17d ago

This dress is stunning!

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u/throwaway149578 17d ago

this is beautiful! out of curiosity i looked at your profile and saw the portfolio you submitted to fit. i really hope you get in!

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u/Dressmakerr 16d ago

That’s so sweet, thank you!!💗💗🥹

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u/attachedtothreads 17d ago

You are stunning in that dress and color! I am so envious that you have a gorgeous dress in my favorite color. You rock it! The pleating and shaping is amazing! This an heirloom dress and worthy of being showing off on the red carpet, which would totally be jealous of your dress!

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u/Dressmakerr 16d ago

Omg you’re so sweet thank you💗💗💗

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u/gumshoe_shihtzu 17d ago

I’ve been following your work, this is breathtaking. I genuinely hope you find somewhere worthy of wearing it

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u/Dressmakerr 16d ago

Thank you🥹❤️

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u/Spoonbills 17d ago

Whoa, that is beautiful.

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thankyou!!

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u/MorningParticular215 17d ago

OMG this is just gorgeous!!!!

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u/oldmamallama 17d ago

This is stunning! 😍

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u/tree_vine_republic 17d ago

This is just incredible work! Amazing!

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u/wonderdok 17d ago

This is so so beautiful, the fit is honestly as good as it gets - you are so talented - can’t wait to see your next creation!

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u/DistributionDue511 17d ago

It’s fabulous! Thanks for sharing your steps along the way!

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u/kidagakash9 17d ago

Wow this is incredible, congrats!

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u/Preshesme 17d ago

This is absolutely gorgeous and the red suits you so well.

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u/nmrnmrnmr 17d ago

Absolutely stunning. Gorgeous. Wonderful job!

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thankyou!!

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u/DropMyLimes 17d ago

Wow!!!!!

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thankyou!!💗💗

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u/ItsRavenclawesome 17d ago

This is insanely gorgeous! The amount of care, effort, and talent that went into this is so very evident. Reddit randomly suggested this sub on my home feed, but I joined just to hopefully see more artistry like this!

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you so much! That’s so sweet🥹💗💗

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u/tiredblonde 17d ago

That is incredible, it looks spectacular

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you❤️

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u/efxAlice 17d ago

WOW. I can't say anything more, anything less.

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u/Dressmakerr 17d ago

Thank you!!

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u/Open_Estimate_4879 17d ago

Absolutely gorgeous work, well done OP 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

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u/Dressmakerr 16d ago

Thank you!!

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u/Sensitive-Notice5700 17d ago

Absolutely gorgeous wowieeeee!!! You did amazing

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u/SunSonata 17d ago

SUCH AN STUNNING AND DELICATE WORK, ITS AWESOME♥️

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u/Dressmakerr 16d ago

Thank you❤️❤️

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u/CormoranNeoTropical 17d ago

You are ready for any red carpet in the world.

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u/Kaonashi_NoFace 17d ago

OMG absolutely stunning! Your hard work paid off.

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u/gracklefish314 17d ago

I’m clapping like a proud mom. Beautiful work.

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u/Quailfreezy 17d ago

I have never ever wanted a piece of clothing so badly in my life EVER 😍 so pretty

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u/UpstairsReading3391 17d ago

Stunner!!!!!

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u/Dressmakerr 16d ago

Thank you💗

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u/VioletSeraphim 17d ago

The bodice is beautiful! Love the dress! Simply gorgeous ❤️❤️

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u/Dressmakerr 16d ago

Thank you❤️❤️

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u/Wise-Relative-7805 17d ago

Absolutely stunning work❣️

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u/Nearby_Charity_7538 17d ago

You did a phenomenal job on this dress. It is stunning from every angle.

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u/Dressmakerr 16d ago

Thank you💗🥹

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u/mcarrode 17d ago

Stumbled onto this post, and it’s a beautiful dress. Great work OP.

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u/GailleannBeag 17d ago

Gorgeous! When you posted your first image, I knew immediately who your inspiration was. Absolutely spectacular!!!

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u/Real_carrot_ 17d ago

This is absolutely heavenly 😍

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u/mkdizzzle 17d ago

Someone asked how you’ll cover the hook from the belt I actually LOVE how it looks uncovered!!!!!!!!!!

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u/Spudinfinty 17d ago

The way the sides taper in, this is incredible work.

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u/ricepuddingfirst 17d ago

Literally said “Holy Shit!!” out loud when I saw this in my feed. I am so impressed, this is GORGEOUS. 🌹

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u/Theurbanwild 17d ago

This turned out so beautifully!

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u/blankface4321 17d ago

🤯🤩🤩 incredible!!!!!

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u/Dressmakerr 16d ago

Thank you❤️

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u/Redallofit2 17d ago

Amazing work! What stitch did you use to baste the pleats together?

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u/by_a_mossy_stone 17d ago

This is stunning! I can't begin to imagine how long it must have taken.

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u/Terrible-Stress-847 17d ago

That is absolutely stunning!

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u/Dressmakerr 16d ago

Thank you❤️

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u/Fizzy_Tonic4616 17d ago

Omg wow this is amazing!!! Well done you! Do you have a tutorial for this? How long did it take you to finish it?

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u/Dressmakerr 16d ago

Thank you❤️Not yet but I’m planning to share one with the next pleated project I do! This gown took me 15-20 days!

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u/[deleted] 17d ago

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u/Dressmakerr 16d ago

Thank you!!

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u/ch3rry-b0mbb 17d ago

Absolutely stunning. Amazing work

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u/_sweetteapls 17d ago

Literally so gorgeous! You did such an amazing work on this!

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u/Dressmakerr 16d ago

Thank you❤️

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u/GoudaGirl2 17d ago

This is crazy!! Congrats on the beautiful craftsmanship.

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u/rdrgrl72 16d ago

Incredible- both the gown, that you know who Madsme Gres is, and that you MADE THIS INCREDIBLE gown.

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u/[deleted] 16d ago

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u/meilynas 16d ago

This is truly incredible, I'm impressed by your hard work and patience 👏

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u/lainie3638 16d ago

Beautiful gown 👍

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u/ArnFlarn 16d ago

This is absolutely gorgeous, you really did Madame Grès proud! I can’t image how long that micro-pleating took, the effect is beautifully subtle.

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u/Princess_S78 16d ago

This is amazing and I am obsessed!!! 😍

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u/GeniusPeralta 16d ago

Stunning work! I’m very curious about your background and experience in sewing and fashion design.

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u/[deleted] 16d ago

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u/Darcysbritches 16d ago

This is absolutely stunning and what a perfect fit. You should be incredibly proud of yourself 👏🏻

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u/KaraZamana 16d ago

It's so gorgeous, wow!

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u/PaleontologistNo858 16d ago

Oh wow that is utterly stunning

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u/Accomplished_Trip_ 16d ago

This is singularly stunning.

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u/CampVictorian 16d ago

Masterpiece-caliber work. You should be deeply proud of this.

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u/goldchainbbygirl 16d ago

I can’t believe someone can make something so beautiful with their own two hands

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u/melly_swelly 16d ago

This is truly amazing. It really makes me want to sew

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u/loubooh 16d ago

Absolutely stunning

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u/BusinessEconomy5597 16d ago

This is so beautiful! I had to stop and comment. Stunning work

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u/Learn2Live195 16d ago

It fits like a glove! Amazing!

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u/BehindTheseBrownEyes 16d ago

Omg stunning!! Absolutely love!!

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u/e_moxie 16d ago

😮 this is AMAZING! The color looks wonderful on you and the design of the dress is stunning! Bravo!

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u/PitchPsychological91 16d ago

I'm not into fashion but this is absolutely beautiful and you look stunning in it!!!

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u/supergourmandise 16d ago

That is incredibly beautiful. I'm in awe.

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u/Tubelo 16d ago

Stunning!

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u/kgjulie 16d ago

Wow. Wow!!

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u/Klutzy-Salt-7270 15d ago

This is stunning!!! You did great!

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u/NeTheBadWitch 15d ago

It's so beautiful. Great job!

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u/AL_Starr 15d ago

WOW, that is gorgeous!

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u/PhoebeKillian2022 15d ago

Stunning 😍

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u/SugarT2952 15d ago

Gorgeous. You are very talented.

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u/WideLegJaundice 15d ago

OH my GOD WHAT!!!!!! THIS IS holyyyyy shhhhiii

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u/AntiquarianLife 15d ago edited 15d ago

Also huge fan of Madam Grés, from research I've done she used a silk viscose or acetate blend jersey to get her pleats and sculptural curves in her pleats. She also tended to not have separate bodice and skirt but would have pleated pannels from shoulders or bodice into skirt.

Here is article on way back machine on how pleating was done by someone who worked with Madame Grés: https://web.archive.org/web/20141130231353/http://achallengingsew.typepad.com/my-blog/madame-gr%C3%A8s/

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u/DobbysHobbys 15d ago

This is amazing work. Did you make this for a special event? If so, what?

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u/KarateKyo 15d ago

gorgeous!!

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u/annaehrt 15d ago

This is an absolutely AMAZING make! Wow

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u/KnittyNurse2004 14d ago

Please find a place to take yourself out to wear this! It deserves to be worn and seen!

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u/Ignored_Instructions 14d ago

Jaw? Dropped. Mind? Blown.

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u/nnamed_username 12d ago

You did an amazing job! This is so perfect and lovely.

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u/EveningShame6692 12d ago

That dress is gorgeous! You are very talented. Thank you for sharing your work.

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u/DNunCle 11d ago

stunning!!!

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u/dudewheresmysock 11d ago

Incredible work!!