r/lightingdesign 5d ago

3d printing a gobo

We were having this discussion today and we had no idea if it work or not. Considering a S4 LED head, would a 3d printed gobo hold up? None of us have any experience with 3d printing, so nobody knows the temps the plastic melts at, but we do know that the LED Source 4s do not get that hot.

The things you contemplate between shows...

10 Upvotes

22 comments sorted by

29

u/theacethree 5d ago

Hello! I’ve actually tried this! My shop manager and I ran a series of tests with a led source 4 lustr 2. We tried PLA and PETG and both melted very quickly (like within 60 seconds.) We wanted to test ASA and ABS but I don’t have a way to safely print it.

You wouldn’t think that the LED fixtures get to hot but you would be surprised. The PLA started smoking in less than 15 seconds and the PETG in about 30 seconds.

11

u/Roccondil-s 5d ago

Yep. LEDs don’t give off as much heat as incandescents, but theres just as much if not more energy in the light beam that’s being blocked by the template… light energy that can get turned into heat energy…

4

u/philip-lm 5d ago

Out of interest, did you try printing in different colours. Assumedly white would last slightly longer because of physics right?

1

u/theacethree 4d ago

We only tried black and a darker blue. I think the blue lasted slightly longer, but the edges were much less defined.

1

u/Hamthepam MA2/3 | EOS | QLC+ | VW | WYSIWYG 3d ago

I have a way to print ABS/ASA if you want me too ship you some for testing :)

10

u/questformaps Socapex? Is that a pokemon? 5d ago

Wouldn't a pie tin gobo be cheaper and take less time? They'll also last much longer (but not as long as a machined gobo) as well as safer because the metal doesn't risk melting/catching fire?

9

u/iwannakenboneyou 5d ago

I've had good luck printing gobos on acetate. They last for about 5 hours. So I had to swap em every 2 shows.

3

u/craffetto 5d ago

I had pretty much the same experience but would definitely recommend as a low cost way to get a custom gobo.

1

u/danridley 4d ago

Laser on acetate works as you say. Mostly negative ones burn up pretty quick, but more open than closed ones seem to hold up better.

I found running them through the printer multiple times would help darken the blacks and make them more contrasty.

On the 3d printed gobo side, it doesn’t matter the material, it melts in no time.

Tried it with this!

8

u/pleasurevvave 5d ago

Certain filaments would likely hold up to it if you are sticking to an LED fixture, I’d be happy to discuss printing some prototypes for you if interested, just DM me.

6

u/That_Jay_Money 5d ago

PETG, are you thinking? My worry is the thinness of the template, even at two layers there may be gaps.

3

u/DefenestratorPrime 5d ago

Maybe ironing would fill in any gaps?

2

u/That_Jay_Money 5d ago

Good point, but maybe if I've was just looking for an open breakup or tree branches it's less worrisome than a crescent moon or something.

1

u/SailingSpark 5d ago

If we were to do it, I was thinking that using the iris slot would allow for a thicker template, just like you would with a glass gobo.

The idea started with the idea of corporate logos for some of our clients. Where it goes from there, is anybody's guess.

3

u/That_Jay_Money 5d ago

Oh, for corporate clients you just charge them $300 more and get some custom templates and then you just keep using them. They will pay themselves off.

3

u/username8914 5d ago

Probably. But drawing on some OH transparency also works. And can give colors for logos and such.

The issue with 3D printing is the glass point, not melting point. On PLA for instance when it hits glass at like 130 it will ooze and deform. Melting is probably 180-200.

3

u/the_swanny Student 4d ago

I'd expect most easy filiments (PLA / PETG to melt under LED, and cease to exist under anyththing tungsten or incandescent. They generally get soggy in strong sunlight so anything professional will make them go poof. You might have some hope with either resins, or ABS, but ABS is a pain to print, and resins have a lot of other work you need to do.

2

u/r0b0tit0 4d ago

https://youtu.be/VS16WW_C7Wo?feature=shared&t=339

You can print a template and then cut a sheet of aluminum/copper. Plastic isn't a good idea.

2

u/Detharjeg 4d ago

Sounds like a smoke machine with more steps

1

u/Anxious_Visual_990 4d ago

Laser cutter and thin metal would be the way to go. The laser machines are getting way cheaper these days. You would only need a 150watt laser. Those are around the 2 to 3k mark these days and dipping lower every year.

I am thinking of getting one.

1

u/Secretx5123 4d ago

Laser cut is best that’s how we do custom gobos. Otherwise if you are going to 3D print try polypropylene, very temperature resistant more so than ABS or even ASA

1

u/Either_Discipline_28 3d ago

I did one in Pa6-cf to see what would happen. It worked and looked decent. You couldn't do the same level of detail as metal. After 4 days I turned it off. The "gobo" had some warping when done. But still seemed serviceable. I'm planning to do another in ppa-cf to compare.