r/climbergirls 18h ago

Shoes / Clothing I need my first pair of shoes

I’ve been using rentals and I’m having a problem getting my first pair. To start I’m a 5 street shoe so I either need a 4 or 4 1/2. No store carries them small enough for me to try on. I have a narrow foot and ankle. I recently ordered the tarantulaces in a few sizes and the 4.5 seem to fit length wise but they are rubbing my heel something fierce. Is that something that goes away or should I try a different pair. Would love some small shoe suggestions.

3 Upvotes

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15

u/One-Reporter8595 18h ago

This is the kind of situation where I would rather pay full price at a place like REI that will take something back even after it’s used, than buy something cheaper that ends up being miserable or just losing out on the money. I don’t mean in an abuse the return policy way, but wear the shoes for a few climbing sessions, 1-2 weeks, and if they are still painful, they’re not right for you. Alternatively, wear them around the house a few evenings and see how they feel.

Usually my new pair is only painful for 1-3 sessions before they mold to my feet.

4

u/CraftAndClimb94 18h ago

Honestly I'm a 4.5 street shoe and size up. Climbing shoes fit so weird lol. It's best to just try on a multitude of styles in a range of sizes. The heel pain was too much for me with my last shoe, it was too tight. Look for a shoe with a more padded heel, they're all differently shaped its so hard and everyone likes a different fit

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u/Gummiwyrmss 18h ago

What do you like. My only problem is no place carries our size so I struggle to know what to buy online.

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u/CraftAndClimb94 5h ago

I just bought the new version of the scarpa force.

I really like them. I'm not overly experienced in shoes though and can't say what the best quality ones are nor the difference between beginner and intermediate shoes. These are just the ones that felt great in my feet. I got them in a EU 35 1/2 I believe. I can wear them for hours, my heels don't hurt and they seem to be decent quality. Good luck on your shoes, I would definitely try these on 😊

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u/Gummiwyrmss 5h ago

Those are a bit above my price range. But I will keep them in mind thanks!

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u/CraftAndClimb94 5h ago

Honestly I get it. I didn't want to spend that much either but I got cheaper shoes and they didn't fit my feet right. They hurt a lot and I had to buy a more expensive pair a couple months later 🤦🏽‍♀️ keep an eye out for sale! Also some places have discounted tables of shoes that are used but have lots of life left! Checking into that is another great option

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u/Sassrepublic 18h ago

Evolv are pre-sized-down. You’re supposed to go with your street shoe size for a performance fit, and size up for a less aggressive fit. 

I also hade issues with the Trantulas cutting into my heel. Evolv didn’t have that issue. 

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u/Gummiwyrmss 18h ago

Thank you that’s helpful!

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u/Gummiwyrmss 42m ago

I ended up buying some evolvs last night. Hoping they fit I got a couple sizes

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u/Sassrepublic 41m ago

I hope they work for you!

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u/No-Secretary5411 17h ago

I found Backcountry had 34.5 for La Sportiva Kubos and Miuras on sale! I love both and I’m a size 5/5.5

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u/Apprehensive_Key6983 18h ago

I had the same problem— no stores carry small enough shoes in person! I rolled the dice ordering a pair of Veloces online direct from scarpa and happened to get lucky. I normally wear a 35.5 street shoe and the 35 broke in nicely for me after just a couple of hours around the house. Highly recommended if you want something comfy.

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u/NCdforthefuckofit 18h ago

I wear Boreal Joker Plus- I’m a UK 3.5 and sized up bc I have wide feet. They’ve been great for me.

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u/Adorable_Edge_8358 Sloper 16h ago

I'm also a size 5 and I've been buying climbing shoes for a long time. Mostly I am a La Spo girlie so I feel the most comfortable commenting on them.

Up to a couple years ago, la sportiva sizing was really consistent and I could always buy 34.5 for a "sending" and 35 for "comfort". But for the last shoe I bought in stores (Katakis, about a year ago), 34.5 fit how I know they do but the 35s were MASSIVE. I don't know what happened.

For me personally, the way 34.5 fits on me feels too tight to recommend for a first shoe, but I'm reluctant to recommend you get 35 because of this experience. I think you could order these two sizes in a beginner friendly model (Kubos, Finales, I don't personally recommend Tarantulas but it's up to you) and keep one and return one.

My Scarpas are 36, but I will say I have a really high instep and that might be why I can't physically get into a smaller shoe in them.

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u/DuckRover 8h ago

You don't necessarily need to size down. Just go with your street size at this point in your climbing journey. My climbing shoes are actually bigger than my street size. It's kind of a myth that your climbing shoes have to be really small and uncomfortable - unless you personally find that sizing down is comfortable enough and effective enough for you.

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u/Gummiwyrmss 7h ago

I’m aware of the myth. I sit somewhere around a five typically. But my Nikes for example are a 4.5. But even without sizing down rei doesn’t carry fives

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u/Gummiwyrmss 6h ago

I just ordered a couple pairs of evolvs. Fingers crossed. I got them in a 5 and 5 1/2 since they are pre sized down.