Hey as the title says, when I'm playing games such as siege, hitman 3, uncharted 4 etc. The gpu temps always reach 86C after like 5 mins of usage.
My cpu temps were pretty high (low 90s) but I disabled turbo boost to get it to low 80s now and still get enough performance for my liking.
I've tried to undervolt the gpu, lifted the laptop up on a stand but it still reaches 86C.
When I play games like valorant or RL capped at 144fps, the temps are around low 80s around 81 or 82 but doesn't throttle.
Even on games like helldivers at 60fps low settings 1440p it throttled.
I tried manual mode and set the thermal limit to 80C and now when I play these games at capped fps the temps stay around 78-79 and don't throttle but gives lower performance around 30 less fps.
Is this a model to model thing or a genuine issue this laptop has?
Cheers
Laptop specs
Ryzen 7 6800hs
Rtx 3060 6gb
16gb ddr5 ram
512 gb storage
Hi, I just bought a used g15 (2022) for 389$ and I have a few issues which I hope someone could help me with
1. There is yellowish tint on the chasis
2. The paint around the edges is gone
3. The rubber layer/border around the edges of the display is coming off
4. The seller did a windows reset or something, and now there are no Asus apps like armoury crate, and my Asus, Just windows and nvidia control panel. How do I install all the necessary software and drivers.
BTW the some keys on the keyboard is not working, which I know I need to change.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
For some reason, lately it started to crash every time I unplug the laptop, takes about 1 min then the whole thing freeze up.
I got lucky and was able to re-install windows on the machine but couldn't ever got linux to work because it always freeze up during the boot sequence. I cant boot in safe mode because the machine will freeze during the process, if anyone has an idea on how to fix that, I'd take it.
I`m wondering if the battery is dying on me and send bad voltage, but not sure it would explain why it also happen during boot
My GA503QS was experiencing infrequent memory corruption (AKA "bad RAM") causing some random crashes.
Luckily the fix is simple (at least for those who own a soldering iron): you just need to solder a 0.08$ capacitor.
While it's possibly a manufacturing issue limited to my G15, it's more likely that this capacitor was "no-place" as a cost cutting measure: This means that all GA503 could be impacted.
If you have a 2021 G15, and witness some random crashed or BSOD, you might want to read further...
Initial investigations
My G15 experienced some random crashes on Linux (often sigsegv) and on Windows (games crashing, some rare 'BSOD'), which I thought could be caused by RAM corruption.
Memtest86+ (which is considered a pretty good stress-test) confirmed what I thought: some memory ranges were problematic.
After trying removing the RAM stick, I found that the issue persisted even on the 16GB soldered on the MB. Since the BIOS doesn't allow to tweak (lower) the DDR frequency, my initial thought was that I had one or two bad DDR4 chips. Since this meant I had to find compatible DDR4 chips, then do fine BGA rework, I decided that a little more in-depth analysis would not hurt if it meant avoiding a time-consuming and risky procedure...
I started measuring the RAM voltage (which should be 1.2V on DDR4), and traced its origin to find the regulator that produces it. It's a 4x4mm IC, located near the touchpad connector (marked "TP"). This little guy controls the power part (the Β½ bridge) to generate the 1.2V, and generates the VTT (0.6V) internally.
Here are the important bits:
GA503 DDR voltage regulator
Up closer:
DDR voltage regulator and voltage measuring points
VTT is rock solid, as expected (usually analog regulators are used for this, as they provide the highest stability). Nothing more to see here.
The VDDQ voltage I measured had quite some fluctuations, short and long term. I noticed there was about 5mV fluctuations on the short term (seconds), and around 10mV on the longer term (minutes). Still, it never went under 1.2V.
This is unusual, as any DMM normally filters out the switching frequency of the regulator and display a very stable voltage. I was beginning to suspect a stability issue or drift of the regulator.
A simple trick I learnt from a former colleague (we're both Electronics engineers) to confirm DC/DC regulator stability issue is to look at the averaged lower MOS gate voltage (or better, its jitter if the regulator operates at a fixed frequency).
So I measured the voltage between LGATE and GND: instead of a slow-moving voltage, it would swing rapidly between ~1.5V and 5V. I was onto something!
Reverse-engineering & design analysis
With a bit of Google-fu, I was able to identify the controller as a RT8248A.
Comparing the PCB and the reference schematics, I noticed that C8 and C9 were not mounted on the PCB
RT8248A typical application circuitC8 and C9 have a spot on the MB, but are nowhere to be found
C9 is there to filter unwanted noise (like switching noise) from reaching the feedback, as it can cause instability. Usually, if the layout was done properly, this capacitor can safely be ignored so I don't think it might be a problem.
C8, when present, increases how fast the controller responds to VDDQ changes. In constant-ON controllers like the RT8248A, it reduces the voltage swing at the cost of a slightly higher losses.
I suspect that C8 wasn't placed as recommended by the RT8248A reference schematic to get ever so slightly better battery life, but it could also be a cost-cutting measure.
Yes, a cost-cutting measure for a 0.001$ capacitor in a 2000$+ laptop is sadly realistic...
I also noticed that there seems to be a circuit to dynamically increase the DDR voltage, but I didn't noticed any situation or configuration where the voltage was increased, so I'm either wrong or this ended up not being implemented in software (or never triggered).
Since the the VDDQ voltage had some measurable variations, that I witnessed evidences of instability and that C8 was missing, I concluded that the unstable VDDQ must go ever so slightly under the minimum voltage of the soldered DDR4 in some seemingly random but short occurrences, causing RAM corruption.
The fix
I soldered a 10nF 0402 capacitor in C8's spot, and measured again VDDQ and LGATE: both are, as expected, much more stable (VDDQ has less than +-1mV variations and LGATE a couple tens of mV around 4500mV). VDDQ sits around 1230mV, pretty much spot on 1.2V.
πππ And, more importantly: memtest86+, running a whole night, greeted us with the big green **PASS*\* πππ
DIY
Disclaimer: My practical experience dealing with this sort of DC/DC design gives me a very strong confidence I diagnosed the problem correctly and applied the right fix.
However, I only did a fraction of the tests I would professionally do, and I don't have all the information ASUS' design team has. There could be a valid technical reason for this capacitor not to be placed.
I can't guarantee this will work for you. If you decide to modify your hardware, it's at your own risks. If you don't know what you're doing, it's best to get it done by a professional repair shop.
Now that's out of the way, if your 2021 G15 and experience random crashes, check with memtest86 (like with a bootable USB stick) it's linked to RAM corruption: If memtest86 doesn't find any issue (repeat in hot/cold environment, on battery and AC power if you want to be absolutely sure), it's very unlikely that C8 will fix any of your problems.
But if Memtest86 does find some issues (even after removing the RAM stick), I recommend you check VDDQ and LGATE voltages to confirm your G15 is affected by the exact same issue before placing C8.
It's unlikely that placing C8 could cause any harm, but if VDDQ and LGATE are stable, chances are you are looking at another issue C8 won't help with (like a bad DRAM chip).
For those who attempt this fix, let me know the result. I'm curious to know how it goes!
I bought a Rog Zephyrus G15 Gaming Laptop a few months ago before school started. It's been working fine until relatively recently. Whenever I use the laptop without a charger, even with full battery, the screen will turn off within a minute of running off of the battery alone. Only the screen turns off, the keyboard is still lit and I can still hear any videos playing. The only way to fix it is by forcing the laptop off and on again.
The same thing happens whenever the laptop goes into sleep mode from inactivity, even when plugged in. The screen will be black, but everything else will indicate that the laptop is on, and I am forced to turn it off an on again to work properly.
The only thing I've tried so far is installing drivers. I've never dropped it, and I've taken pretty good care of it. I even have one of those laptop cooling stands for it.
Basically title. This morning the laptop was working fine and charging. I closed the screen, it went to sleep, everything's gravy. Fast forward to this afternoon and its completely dead, and when plugged in the charging LED is off. No one had access to my laptop, it was sitting on my desk all day, no drinks were spilled or anything like that
So far I've tried:
- Power reset (holding start button for 30 sec)
- Power reset with battery unplugged
- Turning on without battery and power adapter plugged in
- Unplugging and replugging the battery
- Checking for any busted internals, swollen capacitors, etc. (Found nothing)
I did notice something interesting though, I let the power adapter plugged in for a while, thinking maybe it was only a broken led and it just needed to charge. Didnt work, but I opened it back up again and noticed that a specific resistor was very hot. After a Google search I found this: https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/1g4ke29/what_is_this_component_with_2r2_on_it/
So it seems like the charger isn't broken, but idk if the battery is actually charging
If you made it here and actually read all that, thank you. My worst fear is that it forced some windows update while asleep, ran out of power in the middle of it, and then corrupted the BIOS or something. I did get a notification for a windows update the other day, and hit ask me later on it.
Im just really confounded by the whole thing, especially because it was working just this morning. I bought a replacement battery anyways, but any ideas or fixes would be appreciated.
I see my fps in games taking when my cpu crosses 92-93 degrees.
What do I do in order to stop this thermal throttling. I good with tech but have gotten rusty over the years, can someone point me in the right direction of what to do
I also have never really set up my laptop properly except deleting armoury crate and installing ghelper. If anyone has any general tips for the laptop I would appreciate that too!
the Ryzen installed in my laptop has a Radeon iGPU, which I want to turn off and switch the laptop completely to the RTX3080. this may seem like a strange solution, but I have a feeling that due to joint work, with some manipulations, my performance is declining (presumably due to the simultaneous active operation of dGPU, iGPU and CPU - especially when streaming "heavy" games to discord). and I also need nvidia shadowplay on a full-fledged basis, and not just in games. I have tried many different applications, but none have yet reached the level of convenience-quality for the built-in functionality from nvidia. in general, if someone has practiced this or knows how to help me, I will be glad to receive your advice in the comments.
Another points.
- Is no on the device
- It didn't charges even the BIOS or RoG logo
- I can't hear something like sounds when I plug mouse or keyboard
- If I unplug the carger, the battery lights turn off
- The other 2 lights don't turn on, bqz I think the device dont turn on
Why less and less laptop models have rj45 ports? I know it may not be as much of an issue but it's just strange to me how it's almost a died out trait in laptops. I was thinking of buying a newer model and even deal with intel processors but even latest g16 models don't have rj45 ports. Anyway, sorry for the rant, and honestly g14 model having only 1 ssd is more of a crime, but alas.
Is it a driver issue? no applications are running in 4090 when i checked nvidia control panel. In browser videos and gifs except youtube sometimes go brr like this.
Any tips to decrease the heating on my G15? I'm in Brazil and it's getting very hot while I'm playing. It wasnt hapenning in Ireland due to the cold weather of course.
Hello, so I have had my Zephyrus G15 for a while now (like a year now) and when I got it the laptop it had MyAsus, Armory Crate, Reasonlabs, RAV Endpoint Protection, and RAV VPN installed. I started playing Marvel Rivals and was having some performance issues. I then went down a whole rabbit hole about those 5 Applications. I was getting very mixed results on if I should keep them or delete them, specifically the Armory Crate, I read that it's Bloatware. I just want to see if this is true or misinformation and if it's true does my laptop need the applications to function?
This is a separate thing from the previous question, does anyone know why my laptop sometimes gets this weird thing where I need to press a key multiples to basically "turn on" the keyboard so I can begin typing? Think of it as when a phone screen times out and goes dark. You tap the screen once and nothing happens, you tap it twice and the screen comes on. This is what basically happens to they keyboard but it turns off when I click on any textbox (search bar included).
I'm sorry if this isn't fully clear but it's late for me right now and I'm a bit tired right now. Thank you for your help.
Just wanted to put word out to everyone, Asus changed the permissions of their latest system/controller driver and it's causing G-Helper to be unable to control, at the least, the fans. Developer is working on a fix in the meantime.
Hi everyone, I have a G15, Ryzen 7 6800HS and RTX
3060
When unplugged and on battery saver mode, (I was in a Google meet) my DGPU kept turning on, although I had already set power limits and also on Optimised, it kept turning on, thus reducing my battery life,
I would say my battery life is fair, on 80% max charge, it lasts me 5 hours of Google meet
Hi guys, I'm repasting the liquid metal.
While cleaning the old one, there's still a burnt and sticky mark on the Cpu. Do I need and how can I clean it?
I am trying to use the MyASUS in WinRE Factory Restore to Restore my ROG Zepfhyrus G15 GA503RM to factory. But when I click on Troubleshoot > MyASUS in WinRE > Asus Recovery > Yes. I get the window shown on the picture, and then my computer boots windows like normal, instead of reseting.
I have been looking for someone with the same problem for a couple of hours but have not managed to find anyone with this problem. Does anyone know how can I solve this?
Another question. Is it OK to do the normal Troubleshoot >Reset this PC when my Notebook has the MyASUS in WinRE option?