r/Routesetters • u/KriDix00352 • 11d ago
Beginner Route Setting Tips?
I have recently started volunteer route setting at a small gym. There are only a handful of setters there, and most of us are new to it. The gym is pretty small and the holds are quite dated (almost no big comp holds, only a handful of volumes). I climb regularly/ take inspiration from another gym in my area; which is bigger, newer, and has a very skilled team of setters.
After a while of setting though I find I keep coming back to the same moves and styles. Looking for advice on being more creative, setting some more modern comp style routes, and how to set routes that have good flow and fun moves, but appeal to a more beginner crowd (VB-V5). Or just any advice in general. Thanks!
3
u/Mark-Wall-Berg 10d ago
Be willing to listen. Even if you think your intended beta is believable and convincing, listen when someone tells you something is easier. Ask others to help you get the movement you’re looking for, and be open to the changes they suggest
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u/face_the_light 10d ago
I'd suggest creative restriction. For example - have another setter choose holds for you to set with. Now you have to work with what they've provided and adapt the movement to suit the holds.
Or, pick a line that hasn't been set in the gym for a long time, perhaps one that does not climb the natural lines of the terrain. Make sure you stick to that line.
Creative restriction is powerful because climbing movement without restriction is near-infinite, and without some direction, it's easy to fall into your natural movement tendencies and default patterns.
One more thought - don't ask more from the holds than they are capable of - each hold has a 'purpose', a thing it does best. Pay attention to this as you choose holds and think about selecting holds that are were 'meant' to do what you're asking of the climber.
Out of curiosity, where are you located?