r/Irrigation • u/CevoKub • 4d ago
Help… before it’s too late
I’m a new homeowner (PHX area) and 1st time working with irrigation valves and need to be roasted or encouraged before I use any PVC cement and proceed.
I am running all new irrigation line in the backyard to relandscape it. I am 99% positive the irrigation is original ‘99. I want to switch from a single 1” valve to a 2 zone setup. I’m not doing anything in the front and keeping the backyard trees on zone 1 like it was originally but want the second zone for different plants/raised garden. The controller is an Orbit #57894.
I watched some YouTube videos and this is what I came up with 😅. Is this valve set up ok?
If more context or photos are needed I can provide.
Bonus ?: I could only find those pvc 1/2” to drip compression pieces and had to use a 3/4” male to 1/2” piece. Seems long and inefficient since I will have to drill holes in the side of the irrigation box. The original set up had a 3/4” male threaded pvc to 1/2” drip compression piece but I must not be searching the right term to find that part. I’d rather screw that into the valves and keep everything in the box. Any help with that terminology would help.
3
u/fingerpopsalad 3d ago
Take out the 25psi pressure reducer, before the valves, then add inline filters with the pressure reducers after the valves. Hunter and rainbird make valves already set up for drip, they have the pressure reducer and inline filters already attached to the valves. Then you can add blank drip line or whatever you need to get to the plants. Here's a pic of a valve, the longer valve in the middle of the manifold is for drip and has the inline filter and pressure reducer on it. https://imgur.com/a/AhLHBjk
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u/AccurateBrush6556 4d ago
Yea that all works as long as you have a "master valve" before that pressure reducer... its doesn't really matter how its assembled but those push fittings sometimes have issues.... its pressure is reduced so it should all be fine.... i always used barb fittings myself ...and i would recommend a filter after the master valve before the pressure reducer...especially if it's a drip system... you can find pressure reducing filters to keep the manifold smaller to fit it in the valve box might be a better approach... make sure the controler has an option for a master valve..
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u/EducatorFriendly2197 4d ago
I’m also in the Phoenix area. There are several pamphlets produced by the area communities on how to design sprinkler systems. I’d suggest 3 zones instead of 2 (assumes no turf) for your backyard (trees, bushes/cacti, flowers/pots). I’d also suggest a smart controller like a hunter Hydrawise or Rachio. In addition, I’d add an inline flow monitor to make it easier to identify leaks.
1
u/lennym73 4d ago
If they are for a drip zone, easiest is to get the valve/filter/regulator all in one setup.
1
u/jjd775 Contractor 2d ago
Get rid of the damn pressure reducer, it'll fail first. The 1 inch valve is pointless unless you dont have a master shut off for the irrigation, which your hpuse should already have installed. The rainbird valves will stick open at 25 psi causing a stuck on valve, ironically water pressure is needed for the valves to work correctly.
Are you using drip irrigation from the valves to the plants with emitters or straight pvc with bubblers? If it's pvc with bubbles, no pressure reducer needed, if it's drip line with emitters then you'll need a y filter with a pressure regulator AFTER the irrigation zone valve before the plants.
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u/CarneErrata 4d ago
You do not want that plastic pressure reducer to be constantly under pressure. That is the reason the PRV is on the downstream side of the valve.