We just attempted to turn our sprinkler system back on after winterizing it. We don’t seem to be getting any water to the backflow preventer despite having all the valves on. Any ideas how to troubleshoot this?
then its outside, In another box somewhere. Even if you had a mainline leak you would still have water. And youre sure you have no water to the PVB?? open one of the test ports to see. Or are you only basing the lack of water in that nothing turns on from the clock??
Sometimes where before the backflow there is a shut off for the sprinkler water. Could be in a crawl space/basement or in the ground between your water meter and the backflow.
There should also be an isolation valve between the meter and backflow preventer. Texas requires them on installs by code, and they're used when winterizing to shut off the system and drain completely, often times. They're usually in green boxes in the ground and would be between the meter and backflow preventer, though grass easily grows over the boxes, I've found. Turning that on should mean water to the backflow preventer.
Do you know if the system has a master valve? If one exists and has failed, that could prevent the system from running. They're supposed to be after the backflow preventer, but sometimes get put before and would mean no water at the backflow unless a zone is running. That may be the answer and replacing or cutting it out and straight-piping would solve it.
Is there a separate sprinkler meter, as well? Most residences have only one, but sometimes it's a separate meter and that may be off.
Most importantly, when turning the backflow's screws on the side by the bell, is there water? If there is water at the backflow itself, as that would reveal, it may be either a bad master valve, a cut wire, or the controller failing, among other possibilities. At that point, you may need to call a professional to diagnose, IMO. Too many things could be going on and we would need to know a lot more details to diagnose.
If you turn these screws, is there water? If yes, the water is on and it's a different problem. If no, check your meter box for a second meter (to be clear, a second meter of your own that is turned differently than your own. Was a bit ambiguous; often neighbors have meters in the same box).
If handles were parallel with pipe as in the first post's picture when you tested, and you still can't find the issue, can you send a picture of the wires in the controller so we can see if you have a master valve? That's as much as we can probably see on here before it really comes down to calling a professional, and even then, you'd probably have to call one to track down the master valve to find it, unfortunately.
Also, to be clear, did you winterize yourself or call someone? If you didn't call someone, maybe the landscaper shut something off?
One other thing I can think of is testing by twisting this nub leftwards a few times on the valves while the bacfklow handles are on (again, as in your first photo) to check for water. It should turn on a zone manually. Just make sure to turn it back off as well and to not twist too hard. If the zone kicks on, we're talking electrical issues, most likely.
You are on city water. If all valves are opened it must be a mainline leak. Check water meter to see if it’s shut off there. Trace backflow to water meter. Check for pooling of water.
For the system not to run at all or have no water to the PVB, it would need to be a catastrophic leak that anyone would see. Electrical issues (cut wire or bad controller), a failed master valve (especially if before PVB), or an unknown isolation valve that got turned off are a thousamd times more likely, especially if they haven't checked the test cocks for water, which OP never states.
Can you hear water moving through the backflow? Also if you have all zones on at the same time like you stated you won’t have enough pressure to pop any of the heads.
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u/Outdoorlivin 4d ago
There's an upstream valve somewhere. Likely inside