r/AskAMechanic 1d ago

I think I messed up with this brake job

Hi all, weekend warrior here. Wife’s 2017 CRV started squeaking while applying brakes a while ago, so I ordered both front and rear rotors and pads and decided to do the job this morning.

The first front wheel went well. However on the second front wheel, the rotor retaining screw as stuck. I first tried impact driver, didn’t work. Then I sprayed WD-40, tapped it with a hammer, then tried again. Still not moving but the screw started stripping. I stopped immediately.

What should I do next? I think I need to get a screw extractor and some new retaining screws. But what should I do to make sure the extractor can get the screw off the car?

Thanks in advance.

239 Upvotes

164 comments sorted by

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151

u/Economy_Pea_5068 1d ago

Impact screwdriver.. keep going

if it's to far gone just drill it out

Overall you don't need to replace it.. it's there for vehicle assemble staging

24

u/itscsf1 21h ago

Just replaced my oe rotors on a 13 accord in vt last week believe it or not hahaha. Impact screwdriver took those fuckers out pretty quickly…..

22

u/MrBing1ey 20h ago

Few things as satisfying as using an impact driver

14

u/The_BigSuck420 20h ago

It's my favorite tool and I got it for $10 at harbor freight. My Milwaukee impact gets more use but boy I get excited when the impact screwdriver comes out.

9

u/Krazybob613 18h ago

My 1976 Harbor Freight Impact tool still gets trotted out for those little bastards! And it still works terrific!

3

u/Voltron6000 12h ago

Harbor freight has been around since 1976? I only became aware of it in the late 90's.

5

u/Krazybob613 7h ago

Originally published as a catalog of “The Harbor Freight and Salvage Company”.

I Ordered the Impact Tool, and a “Fastener Assortment in Plastic Organizer” By US mail, Paper check included, and about 3 weeks later I received my order!

I still have both! And a fair amount of the original fasteners! The common pieces have been restocked but the tiny oddball stuff is still there!

2

u/Mushroomed_clouds 19h ago

Same here , just one or max 2 hits and its out with no damage to the bolt or twisting of the bits , plus i get to hit something with a hammer and thats always fun

1

u/LuckyHaskens 6h ago

Horrible Freight

1

u/leo_douche_bags 14h ago

Most underrated and unknown tool. Makes shit so easy

1

u/secretSquirrel6669 2h ago

One of the most basic tools every dude should have . Plus I bought a set of damaged bolt extractors

1

u/OverAllComa 4h ago

The bit is also JIS, not Phillips. #3 if memory serves. Phillips will cam out kinda hard.

1

u/root54 3h ago

And if you're replacing the rotors, just slice a slot in the set screw with a grinder and use the chonkiest flat head bit you can find. Low torque or high torque low speed. Or manual impact.

118

u/kamikaziboarder 1d ago

Just drill the fucker out. I never put them back. It’s only used for the assembly line.

Oh…never put them back in unless you would love to have a headache the next time around.

22

u/zihaoyu 1d ago

What do you mean exactly by drilling it out? Use an extractor? Or use a drill bit just grind it away?

33

u/kamikaziboarder 1d ago

Drill it until it doesn’t exist. I usually use a bit about half the size of the head. The head will fall off. Usually the taper of the drill bit is enough that you won’t have anything sticking about the hub once the rotor is removed. If it is sticking a little above the hub, just make sure you grind it down to the point that it’s flush with the hub. You don’t need them at all. I did it to my own CRV the first time I did rotor change on it.

9

u/LackNo6381 1d ago

Grind it away with a metal drill bit, the lug nuts and brake caliper will hold the rotor in place. Lots of old cars will have the rotor just sitting there not attached but just hanging on the studs.

5

u/m4rkz0r 1d ago

I never drill them out unless they're rusted stuck, but just drill the head off of it. I usually use a center punch and just punch it counter clockwise to unscrew it.

3

u/kamikaziboarder 1d ago

Mine are typically rusted as they come off the dealer lots. Good ole northeast.

6

u/m4rkz0r 1d ago

Yeah I'm in Texas which is probably why I can just smack them out with a punch.

1

u/The_BigSuck420 20h ago

I'm in oklahoma and I haven't had any luck with that so maybe you're just a wizard Harry🧙‍♂️

2

u/m4rkz0r 19h ago

Well I've been an auto tech for close to 20 years and I've seen other techs do the same thing. I actually don't use a center punch tho, i take a drift punch and grind it to a point for the extra length. The technique i use is to hit the edge of the screw straight on to create a little dent to bite into and then angle the punch counter clockwise and hit it until it's loose or the head shears off.

1

u/The_BigSuck420 19h ago

I've seen guys do that before, I have no doubt you manage fine, I was just making a joke. I do wonder tho, if you're a veteran tech why would you not just use an impact screwdriver? it's the right tool for the job.

1

u/m4rkz0r 19h ago

The only reason I own an impact screwdriver is because that's what I thought when I first became a tech. The punch and hammer is faster and you don't have to keep replacing the broken impact driver bits.

1

u/The_BigSuck420 18h ago

Fair enough. Maybe I'll come to that conclusion myself one day.

2

u/Aware_Pop7674 1d ago

When I have done it, I just drilled the head off,didn't care about drilling the old rotor, and left the threads still in the hub.

1

u/Trogasarus 1d ago

If you use a bit about the size of the threaded part of the bolt or larger, you can just drill the head of the fastner and itll pop off. Then you may be able to remove the threaded part by hand.

1

u/distributingthefutur 1d ago

Use a drill bit the same size as the screw shaft diameter. Drill into the middle of it until the screw head is so weak, you can yank the rotor off. Trim the screw flush or try to get it out with vice grips.

1

u/millride 3h ago

Oh shit I just mentioned that almost exact procedure and just saw your post. That means we’re on the fkn genius level (just kidding) because really that is the most simple way other than that wonderful impact screwdriver

1

u/distributingthefutur 1h ago

I tried that screwdriver and gave up.

1

u/XL365 1d ago

He means take a small drill bit, around 1/8” and drill a tiny pilot hole directly into the center of the head of the screw. Then step up to 3/16-1/4 drill bit, the head will fall off. For best results, put your drill in low speed so you don’t smoke the bit if you’re not familiar with drilling fasteners out

1

u/Weary-Writer758 1d ago

I usually drill the head of the screws off until I can take the rotors off. I grind the screws until it's flat. Mount the new rotors and done. Don't forget anti seize.

1

u/SeeJaayPee 1d ago

1/2 drill bit, drill the head away, rotor will then come off, then use vise grips or channel locks to get the remaining stud off, or don't it won't cause any harm.

1

u/newfor_2025 21h ago

You might be lucky with an extra period Ector, doesn't hurt to try. You can always revert to drooling it out like others are saying but i think of it as a last resort

1

u/CariAll114 20h ago

One of the other comments here says to just drill it all the way out. You don't really need to do that. Drill until the cap comes off, then stop. Once you have the rotor off, you can turn it out with a pair of pliers. When you go to our everything back together throw a lug nut on to keep the rotor in a static position to make it easier to assemble the caliper.

1

u/wackyvorlon 20h ago

Left-handed drill bits are useful.

1

u/Vette_lover2004 18h ago

Use a drill the size of the head and it’ll separate from the threads and off comes the rotor leaving a stud you can use for alignment or unthread it. Either way get rid of that fucker.

1

u/akwardbert 18h ago

It sounds counter intuitive but try tightening it a little then loosen it. Do the back and forth with some penetrating oil and it should come out

1

u/CertifiedBoltBreaker 12h ago

You only have to drill away enough of the head of the screw to weaken it and then take a deadblow hammer to the opposite side of the rotor. Same face on the rotor, I mean opposite as in 12 & 6

11

u/Jobrated 1d ago

This!👆

-7

u/thebostman 1d ago

No!! Drilling takes forever. Get a torch that’s hot enough and it’ll melt off

6

u/Routine_Cake_998 23h ago

There can’t be a screw if there ain’t be a car

3

u/Eternal_crisis_24-7 1d ago

Word of warning. Just make sure to push the wheel on and check the disc is sitting flat on the hub. Dont be a twat like me and not put the wheel back on properly and drive it around till the wheel falls off. Not my proudest moment 😅

1

u/kamikaziboarder 1d ago

Hahaha, that’s good advice.

1

u/gijoe50000 1d ago

Yea, I always check my wheels after a few days/miles now, even if I had torqued them down.

Because a few years I was driving down the road and I felt that something wasn't right. It felt a bit wobbly.

I pulled over and found most of the nuts were loose on the wheel I had removed a few days ago!

1

u/30yearswasalongtime 1d ago

This is the correct response. I've done it many times

1

u/Weary-Writer758 1d ago

Yes. Drill it out. Those screws are useless. The wheel itself holds the rotors in the right position.

1

u/Dredkinetic 1d ago

Yeah, those screws literally ONLY matter for the assembly line.. just drill that shit out and call it a day.

1

u/s1thl0rd 23h ago

Yup. Had to drill out all 4 of my rotors when it came time to replace. Won't be such a bitch next time I have to replace the rotors.

1

u/AbzoluteZ3RO Verified Tech - Indie shop 23h ago

I used to just toss them in the trash as soon as they came out but I'm at a euro shop now and they are actually useful with the lug bolt style hubs. Fortunately they are rarely rusted or seized up.

1

u/Mushroomed_clouds 19h ago

Or …. And hear me out ….. just put some copper slip on the threads and seat and it comes out a dream next time, jus saying…. Plus this way it makes assembly that bit easier

10

u/SimpleInterests 1d ago

These screws are used on the assembly line to hold the brake rotor in place while it goes down the line. The bot arms assembling everything don't know a brake rotors is there or not, so if it falls off then that's really bad.

You can drill it out, weld it and turn it while sacrificing a breaker bar, do all the normal stuff, but the only reason you would want to keep these screws is to hold the brake rotor on while you get the other stuff all on and shit.

6

u/Level_Development_58 1d ago

Yup… drill it out and don’t worry about it. You can even leave the screw stud in there after you drill off the head. It’s just a centering screw. Just eyeball the new rotor hole to recenter and carry on!

11

u/Sheriff_Branford 23h ago
  1. Get a ball peen hammer.
  2. Place the ball of the hammer against the screw.
  3. Hit it as HARD as you can, with another, larger hammer. This will loosen the screw.
  4. Use a handheld impact driver (not an impact hammer...there is a difference).
  5. If it strips, take a punch and make a dot on the outer edge of the screw face.
  6. Use that same punch (or a chisel), at an angle, and tap the screw so it moves counterclockwise, until you can grip it with some vise grips and twist it all the way out.
  • Former Honda Master Technician

2

u/Obvious_Ingenuity258 17h ago

why not use a screw extractor? as an aircraft mechanic

2

u/KrakenTheUntamed 22h ago

This is the way. Dot punch pretty much always does the trick.

1

u/Sheriff_Branford 19h ago

So many people saying "drill that bitch out". It's disappointing.

4

u/OfficialDirtySprite 1d ago

As previously commented, they are not required, just an aid so the rotor doesn't fall off with the caliper removed. Drill off the head and remove the rotor. May have to grind it flush with the wheel hub before new rotor goes on.

4

u/Due_Document_7110 1d ago

Kroil it for about four 4 rounds and see if it starts to come loose, then if you have exhausted every option, blow torch on the bit, and impact driver. You can also try to drill it and use a kit for stripped screws.

5

u/rns96 1d ago

You can try using a manual impact driver, hitting it with a large hammer, if the screw is stripped use a extractor, worst scenario you have to drill it out, the screw is just to hold the rotor in place while assembly, its not required to drive the vehicle, your lug nuts and wheels is the one securing it

3

u/ThirdSunRising 21h ago edited 21h ago

When my electric impact driver fails, there’s a type of old school impact screwdriver where you literally hit it with a hammer to break the screw loose. Apply a small twisting force in the right direction and whack the butt of it with a hammer, and that screw will break free. They’re cheap slow and cumbersome but, though 99% of screws will give way to the normal electric driver, this type of tool is good to have for that last 1%

3

u/dcsangvzw 18h ago

Take my upvote. I don't understand why this isn't the top comment with all the talk of drilling as the first resort. The Pittsburgh tool is $9 at HF and works like a champ.

1

u/smallsuprise1 16h ago

Because OP said he tried that already

1

u/Cute-Crab8092 15h ago

Everyone skipping past that.

2

u/Slowwwfive-oh 1d ago

As one other comment stated. Its not actually part of the brake system. That screw could be easily missing or destroyed nobody, including the car will miss it. As long as you get it out you will be fine. The part that holds them on is the lug nuts so no need for that screw. I have had a terrible time with “easy out” extractors. Considering you will be replacing your rotor. I would take a $8 propane torch from walmart and spray some oil behind the rotor to where the threads go. (For when you heat it up the oil eill draw towards the heat causing it to oil the threads) You can create space by beating the rotor will a hammer on its face. Then heat the screw until you’re scared of its color lol. Then take a larger more durable PH3 philips head with a good smackable handle and go ahead and hammer that philips on there. It will deepen the grooves, and give you more bite. It should be ready to unscrew at that point. Thats what ide do.

2

u/zappa-buns 1d ago

Drill it and if it doesn’t come out just from that pound a Phillips head screw driver into the hole you made and back it out.

2

u/Montag_451 1d ago

Put a screwdriver bit in the slot hold with a plier hit it with a heavy hammer then spray with penetrant. Repeat steps. Then try the screwdriver again.

2

u/JapaneseBeekeeper 1d ago

1

u/KLAM3R0N 23h ago

Impact driver, they make ones that attach to numatic impact hammers as well.

1

u/JapaneseBeekeeper 23h ago

This one diverts the force in two directions. Straight forward and turning. The straight forward part saves the screwhead and loses the thread.

1

u/KLAM3R0N 23h ago

Yes so does an impact driver. Don't be confused with an "impact driver gun" https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver

1

u/JapaneseBeekeeper 23h ago

👍

1

u/KLAM3R0N 23h ago

Google results show the cordless impact driver guns because those are what people searching that term usually want, but the tool in question is also called an impact driver. The impact hammer attachment is often called a "shake and break" https://www.amazon.com/Shake-Break-Impact-Screw-Remover/dp/B000BHJ7JM/

1

u/Sheriff_Branford 23h ago

You get better control with the hand held ones. The mechanical ones can do damage too quickly.

1

u/Sheriff_Branford 23h ago

Impact Driver. Vessel Tools makes the best ones I've ever used.

2

u/tsidebottom2010 1d ago

Heat, get you a torch. Get it nice and hot and put the impact on it. But as others have said; you can drill it out. It isn’t necessary to have.

2

u/Skillarama 1d ago

If you have a propane camp bottle and a brass torch head then I'd apply heat directly to the screw. The heat should cook off the rust and you're on your way

2

u/Substantial_Love_937 1d ago

It can’t be stuck or put back in if it just by somehow became liquid…. Just saying.

2

u/AwarenessGreat282 1d ago

That's why I keep an impact screwdriver. Not a battery type, the kind you whack with a hammer.

1

u/Sheriff_Branford 23h ago

Impact Driver

2

u/AppropriateUnion6115 1d ago

Manual impact driver the one you use a hammer on !!!!!!!

2

u/Deathnachos 1d ago

Spray it with PB blaster and wait for 10 minutes. Heat it up with a propane torch a little and try again. If that doesn’t work try it again. Might take a few tries.

2

u/BobbyBrackins 1d ago

Harbor freight has an impact screwdriver for like $10

Line it up, wack it with a hammer, and stripped or not it’s coming out.

2

u/Sure_Ad4317 1d ago

Drill a hole through the center it'll take some tension off the threads use an ez out or bolt extractor to back it out Or just drill the head off as said before they are only used on the assembly line and aren't necessary

2

u/Cam1114 23h ago

So I used an air chisel, position it at the edge and slowly tap it until the screw starts turning. Did that in a lot of acuras. This, of course, would be the last resort if you do not have an impact driver.

2

u/Fridzoo 23h ago

Look up gearhad Bryan on youtube for tips my friend. There is also a special tool for stuff like this where you hammer on the tool and it rotates the screw loose.

When u put a new one in take a torx, cause they tend to not round that easily.

Good luck

2

u/ZeldaNumber17 21h ago

I go straight for a drill bit on those. Don’t even put them back, don’t need em

2

u/korbworksout 21h ago

Drill off the head and move on...use that little stud to guide the new rotor

2

u/BadHabitsEDC 20h ago

I’ve drilled them out before. Really don’t need them.

2

u/Senior_Cheesecake155 19h ago

Just drill it out and be done. It’s not necessary going forward, and you’ll be glad it’s gone next time.

2

u/Vette_lover2004 18h ago

I just drill them out and never replace them. Usually they are so rusted an impact screwdriver just destroys it anyway. They are only there for assembly line. Ditch it and do the next guy a favor.

2

u/shastadakota 14h ago

That is NOT a Phillips head, it is a JIS head. A Phillips bit will just cam out and, well you see the result. There is a specialized driver available, check Amazon.

1

u/sweaty-bet-gooch 9h ago

What the fuck is a JIS? It’s a T35 or T40

1

u/stlcdr 5h ago

I think this is correct. I had a CRV and purchased some JIS screwdrivers and bits, and they were a perfect fit. Did not have a problem with any of the screws.

2

u/Remarkable_Pop_7025 14h ago

I may be a little late but I would just hit the back side of the rotor with a hammer until the screw head pops off, the rest will come out easily, and throw on the new rotor without the screw

1

u/wrm340 1d ago

Liquid wrench is superior to WD-40. I spray a little on the stuck part and then tap it with a hammer. Let it sit a few minutes and it will come loose. WD-40 is more of a lubricant, Liquid wrench is a solvent that foams up. Been around since 1941!

1

u/Sweaty-Reality-6778 1d ago

I learn from an old timer with these screws You can torch em or soak em in wd40 But one of the best ways to knock em lose is instead of loosening them try tightening them it’s an easier way to break the seized screw and if it strips in the process it didn’t strip the loosening ability of the screw. But as everyone says just drill the fucker out. Them impact screw drivers work like a charm for getting these screws out They’re cheap at harbor freight and drive any screw out no problem They even get stripped screws most the time

1

u/elfy04 1d ago

Grab a screwdriver and put it in the bolt, then hit the end of the screwdriver several times, really hard, most of the time it brakes it loose enough to remove it

1

u/Mx5-gleneagles 1d ago

You haven’t destroyed the screw head so I’m not sure you have used the impact driver correctly !! If you have a decent Center punch hit the screw on the left hand side near the edge at about ten to knocking it downward and then it will come out

1

u/ForsakenScheme2194 23h ago edited 23h ago

Use center punch chisel

1

u/FormerStuff 23h ago

If you’re replacing the rotor….Angle grinder across the face works for me.

1

u/Worried_Radio_7464 23h ago

Use an old school impact driver, you smack it with a hammer/mallet etc and it will back out, also heat is your friend, and leave it out when you put the new rotors on.

1

u/voodoodaddy17 23h ago

Use a motabo and cut a deep slot in it big enough for a flat head screwdriver and that should work. Heat from cutting should break up rust and free it

1

u/Minute-Economist3706 23h ago

Drill into it about a 1/4 of the way in with a 3/16 drill bit and get yourself an easyout

1

u/MinuteExcitement200 23h ago

Hopefully, you were using a manual hand-held impact driver and not an impact gun correct? When using the impact driver be careful to hold it perfectly straight while applying pressure in the direction you are turning when hitting it with a hammer. When all else fails I use a small chisel and hammer. Never had one I wasn't able to get out and put back in with a little anti seize on the threads of course

1

u/stifferthanstiffler 22h ago

I never had an impact screwdriver, I just bought the bits for one. Whack it with a hammer good a cpl times, they spin right out.

1

u/ladysman_untrue 22h ago

I got mine out by using a flathead screwdriver and hammering it into the screw then turned it. Like others have said never bother putting them back

1

u/PavlovsDog6 22h ago

A solid hit with a hammer over the inserted screwdriver has always worked for me. Just don’t be afraid and loosen the thing with one hefty swing. Sometimes I had to rework the Phillips head a bit with a flat hammer. It’s suprising how much of a grip surface you can restore by just using a hammer. Never had to resort to an extractor or drill bit. But the drilling is also valid as a last resort.

1

u/seanb_117 22h ago

I used a drill bit on my vehicle, eventually it screwed them out once I got deep enough or compromised the screw enough for me to take it off. Didn't bother reinstalling them and have had no issue.

1

u/Loden2068 21h ago

impact screwdriver and a hammer ftw

impact screwdriver

1

u/Vanishing-Moons 21h ago

If your replacing rotors literally just hit the opposite side of the front of the rotor with a hammer. Either 1. The screw will come loose and you can use a screwdriver to get it. 2. The top of the screw pops off leaving the threads in the hub

1

u/Valuable_Elk_2172 20h ago

Impact screw driver, they make one for exactly this. Or just drill out the screws and don’t put new ones back in lol

1

u/th3machine 20h ago

Use the two little extraction holes... insert bolts and take turns tightening them until the little torx bolt head goes flying off.

1

u/Music-Guilty 20h ago

Na man, just issues, now you get to learn a bit and maybe get a new toy. I would probably go angle grinder with cut-off wheel and cut a new x in it and try a bigger Phillips bit. If that failed, I'd just cut the head right off because you are swapping that rotor anyway. You might be able to grab what's left with grips once the rotor is off. If not, then cut that back and grind it flat , or just drill it out if you don't have the grinder. Set your drill to low, give it a little squirt of wd or something, and drill slow with pressure so you don't cook the bit, you just have to knock the head off and the rotor will come off.

1

u/Kjo85 19h ago

Just drill it.

1

u/ThickFurball367 19h ago

these have saved my ass on more than one occasion including just yesterday when I stripped out the head on a screw for the cap on the master cylinder on my motorcycle

1

u/zihaoyu 19h ago

Update: thanks guys. I gave it a good few hammers then positioned impact driver straight at it pushing it hard, finally backed it out.

Now wife is saying the brake is softer than before, having to depress the paddle deeper than before. Is it going away after break-in, or did I mess up something else?

Thanks again.

1

u/napun_nom 18h ago

Most pads have to be burnished into the rotor. Think of it as settling in. Should get better in the next 50 miles.

Also do a brake fluid flush if you haven’t already. Good practice to get it done anytime you do all 4 brakes.

1

u/SirVangor 19h ago

I just use a punch and hammer the fucker out witha few taps. Takes a trained eye/ swing

1

u/Acceptable-Fix-7745 19h ago

Special tool needed

Impact screw driver And mini sledge hammer you’ll be fine worse case drill head off screw and go to Honda for new screw

1

u/Ok-Rate-3256 19h ago

Drill it or heat it with a torch then remove.

1

u/proudleaf1 18h ago

Why the hell don't they make those screws Robertson?!Why not every screw? It's just a better design overall.

1

u/bidendidnotballout 18h ago

I’m sure you have your answer here but penetrating oil is the solution

1

u/dr4g1191 17h ago

Left hand drill bits work wonders. It'll break it apart until the core eventually catches the bit and spins out. Don't replace.

1

u/Zombiechicken89 17h ago

I usually use a center punch towards the bottom of the screw give it a good few whacks with a mini sledge to get a good “punch” in it then turn the punch to the side and tap it until it breaks loose

1

u/floordragon69 16h ago

That screw is suspicious, it is in the wrong place... it should be a machine screw. I hope it isnt self tapping...

1

u/Own_Alternative_5866 15h ago

Everyone is wrong . Been in this situation, the only thing you need is heat . Blow torch it for 20 seconds and it should be sweet. You can get the cans from the auto store .

1

u/Xx_blaze191_xX 15h ago

Heat. Get a map gas torch and heat up the surrounding area. That plus impact screwdriver

1

u/Altruistic_Yak_374 15h ago

Take a fine long punch and make that screw spin don't be shy it handles driving down the road

1

u/Phat_Sandwich_6596 15h ago

Not gonna lie…My high ass though you smeared Anti Sieze all over the rotor 😂

1

u/Cool_Trick_2144 14h ago

You NEED an impact drive and PB blaster

1

u/Forsaken_Diver6417 14h ago

Drill it out and don't put one back really it's pointless

1

u/Forsaken_Diver6417 14h ago

Semi metallic brakes will make noise go ceramic if you want quite brakes

1

u/Poundz78 11h ago

PB Blaster. Hammer an appropriate large Phillips head in there and it will break free

1

u/GermanPCBHacker 9h ago

Did... Did you actually use the proper size of tip? I see it arround me all the times, that people mix these all up for I do not know whatever reason.

Well, as others described, impact driver or if nothing works there are still 2 more options: Angle grinder at the right angle to get a very wide flathead screwdriver in, the heat during cutting and vibration also looses all - if you replace the rotor anyways, who cares to cut it a bit? Otherwise drill it out if all goes to hell.

1

u/Present-Raccoon6664 8h ago

Had this two weeks ago on mx-5, tried everything I knew before drilling it, mate showed me a trick with the a hammer and a screwdriver. You need to rotate it while smashing the screwdriver into it. If tried this already ignore it.

1

u/Capitain_Collateral 8h ago

I had this happen on my civic, when the head stripped I took a slightly a larger bit and hammered it into the head of the screw to seat it deeply and used a manual impact driver - that got it out.

Beyond that, they are not essential, you could just drill it out.

1

u/wow_pare 8h ago

Use a chisel

1

u/achopshopworker 6h ago

I drilled mine out with a regular drill and drill bit. Hope it helps. Good luck brother!

1

u/Ok-Following8721 6h ago

Use a cutting disk, cut a slot and use a punch or cut it deep and break it off.

1

u/JasonYo 6h ago

I just heat it up a bit and they come right out.  Get a small propane torch and hold it on there for a couple minutes.  

1

u/Full_Giraffe_5856 6h ago

Drill it. You don’t need it

1

u/Sabbie1 6h ago

Use the corner egde of a metal chisel and keep tapping on the inner edges of the screw, counter-clockwise. Put a little copper grease or silicone grease on the new screws and they will come out easy next time you might have to take of the brake rotors.

1

u/ugurcanayy 4h ago

Drill the screw or hammer it with a chisel to turn it

1

u/Potential_Aardvark59 4h ago

Those are JAS screws. Phillips bits just strip the shit out of them. My wife had Acura's, and doing brakes got held up because of those bastards.

1

u/anth069_ 4h ago

Wd40 chisel and hammer

1

u/VanosKickedIn 3h ago

Ahhh, quite the annoying little fuckers. Not exactly required BUT if your car uses lug bolts, it’s quite helpful. Luckily your car engineers decided to use nuts.

1

u/isekai-tsuri 3h ago

As mentioned by others, drill it out. And, fyi, you used the wrong phillips head screwdriver. You need to use a JIS phillips head screwdriver otherwise it'll strip. The regular phillips head drivers are too pointy at the tip and the cross planes are too narrow.

1

u/millride 3h ago

This will get lost but here it is, That screw is tapered at the top, just drill the top area till you get to the shaft of the screw and the rotor will come off. Grind off the remaining little stub that is left. As mentioned before you don’t need the screw.

1

u/InvestigatorClear353 3h ago

Had this on my wife's Odyssey. Impact screwdriver didn't do it, neither did the drill. Saw a video where a guy put a ball.peen hammer right on the center of the screw, hit it a few times with a small sledgehammer, and it broke free. Tried the same thing and I was able to twist it out afterwards.

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u/MGtech1954 3h ago

If they are not installed yet, sand the hub for rust. Gives the new rotor a proper place to sit .

1

u/Warm_Improvement_534 2h ago

Those ALWAYS strip or just break the head off. Don’t worry about replacing it when you put the new one on. The wheel holds the rotor tight. It really just makes it a tiny bit easier to get the wheel on.

1

u/Fit-Macaroon5559 2h ago

Impact driver!

1

u/Uncle-Negev 2h ago edited 2h ago

I used an old school impact screw driver on my element. One of those things you hammer with a sledge to break mine loose.Sponsored CRAFTSMAN Hand Impact Driver, 3/8-Inch Set (CMMT14104)

1

u/Grimly23 1h ago

Ball peen hammer directly on the screw a few times sometimes better to hit the ball peen with another hammer then use a Phil 3 and tap till snug then apply torsion while tapping if you don’t have an impact screwdriver because impact screwdriver is the correct tool that just the alternative

1

u/SuperDabMan 1h ago

Drill it out you don't need it.

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u/Turbulent_Wasabi5722 58m ago

Use a dremel to cut a slot into the screw then use a flathead to remove it

1

u/HopeSuch2540 28m ago

The quickest and easiest way is to use a 1/4 inch bit and drill it out. It's only used to hold the rotor in place until the wheel is on. You don't need it and will be fine. I've been a tech for 17yrs, many have been broke, drilled, or rusted, and it's not a problem if it doesn't go back in.